may-2012

IMAGE CORBIS
top urban wildlife centres, the zoo was established in 1997 and is
now administered by British charity Ape Action Africa. It is not
an entirely naturalistic habitat, but these animal urbanites don’t
seem to mind. Cerulean peacocks dance next to moss-speckled
walls, crocodiles peek shyly out from under mottled cement steps
and lions nap lazily atop red soil. Magenta flowers and bright
foliage keep the cement-and-fence enclosures from seeming grim.
The zoo is open daily from 9am to 6pm, with admission CFA2,000
(€3) and a camera fee of CFA500 (€0.75).
Ape Action Africa also runs the larger and better-known Mefou
Primate Park, located about 40km outside Yaoundé. The biggest
draw to this 2,500-acre refuge is the close proximity to gorillas
and chimpanzees that it affords visitors. One is
quickly mesmerised by the behaviour of the jet-
black gorillas, whose intimate grooming displays
and playful antics seem eerily familiar. This uncanny
similarity to human behaviour makes the illegal
bush meat trade many Mefou Park inhabitants were
rescued from – and that Ape Action Africa works
hard to combat – seem all the more nefarious. It is
open daily from 9am to 4.30pm, and entry costs
CFA7,500 (€11.40) for adults and CFA2,000 (€3) for
children, although there is a discount for
Cameroonians. Visitors are advised to call ahead during the rainy
season to make sure roads are passable.
Ebogo Village, a partnership project of the Ministry of Tourism
and World Tourism Organisation, is one of Cameroon’s oldest
and most impressive eco-travel destinations. Located about 60km
outside Yaoundé, Ebogo was renovated in 2011 and energyefficient
guesthouses are currently being installed. Guests can
take a three-hour butterfly tour on the Nyong River by pirogue
– a traditional vessel made by burning, then hand carving a tree
trunk. If the luxuriant green riverbanks don’t provide enough
visual stimulation, just wait. The sapphire wings of hundreds of
common swordtail butterflies will soon catch the light filtering
{ UNDISCOVERED CAMEROON }
Above left: A baby western lowland gorilla touches his mother’s face at the primate sanctuary run by the Ape Action Africa in Mefou National Park, which is just outside the capital
Above right: Parrots in the Lobéké National Park in the southeastern corner of Cameroon, close to the border with the neighbouring Central African Republic
These
pristine
tropical
woods are
paradise
on earth
brussels airlines b.spirit! magazine may-jun
{ 18 }
through the trees, transforming the river into an ethereal watery
wonderland of glittering blue.
Not to be outdone by the capital city, Douala, the capital of
Cameroon’s Littoral province, is also coming into its own as a
wildlife destination. Douala, the ancestral home of the Duala
tribe, was discovered by Portuguese explorers in 1472, and
became a vital link in the trans-Atlantic slave trade soon after.
The camarões – Portuguese for shrimp abundant in the nearby
Wouri River – became the country’s crustacean namesake.
In contrast to Yaoundé, Douala’s proximity to Buea and Mount
Cameroon, and neighbouring towns Limbe and Edea, makes it the
perfect base for adventure travellers and wildlife enthusiasts with
more time. Outside the sweltering heat of Douala’s
heavily populated port, the traveller finds thick, hazy
forests and complex ecosystems rich with plant and
animal life. These pristine tropical woods are paradise
on earth for naturalists; new species of flora and
fauna were discovered there as recently as 2010.
Heat and precipitation can make this region
somewhat difficult to navigate. Travellers seeking a
more authentic experience off Douala’s beaten path
may wish to connect with an established travel
company. The Global Bush Travel and Tourism
Company (globalbushtratour.com, tel. +237 70 497 663)
coordinates custom tours that cater to every type of traveller and
will even help you find a babysitter.
Avid birders can team up with international groups like the
Africa Birding Club (africanbirdclub.org) or Tropical Birding
(tropicalbirding.com), a Canadian company that plans birding
odysseys all over the world. Their Cameroon trip starts off in
Douala and can last up to 27 days, depending on the tour
package purchased, during which time birders can expect to see
several hundred kinds of bird.
Brussels Airlines flies to Douala and Yaoundé five times a week
IMAGE STEVE BLOOM