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Galloper Wind Farm Project - National Infrastructure Planning

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several small greens in an attempt to reduce fire risk.<br />

Felixstowe is now the largest container port in the country<br />

and has post-war housing estates linked to Victorian terraces<br />

to form amorphous suburbs. Yarmouth’s South Quay has a<br />

splendid sequence of Queen Anne and Georgian houses some<br />

of which are timber-framed behind their more fashionable<br />

brick façades. Lowestoft is very urban with strong links to<br />

London’s East End via the fish trade and the railway.<br />

One unusual structural feature of this area is the crinkle<br />

crankle or serpentine wall, of which there are 40 in Great<br />

Yarmouth and Gorleston alone. Most of them are late<br />

Georgian in date, with a few later examples. Until it was<br />

breached, the serpentine wall around Easton Park, near<br />

Woodbridge, was the longest in the world.<br />

Land Cover<br />

The variety of soils within the Suffolk Coast and Heaths area<br />

has largely dictated the differences in land cover. These range<br />

from the shingle beaches and spits along the coast (Orford Ness<br />

is a very important coastal feature) to the large-scale Scots and<br />

Corsican pine plantings on former acid heathland and the arable<br />

production on the silty clay and loam alluvium of the interestuarine<br />

areas. Much former saltmarsh has also been drained<br />

and ploughed. Main crops are wheat, barley, sugar beet and<br />

potatoes but there are also areas of soft fruit and vegetables and<br />

increasing numbers of outdoor pigs. Sheep used to graze the<br />

heathland and are being reintroduced as an aid to restoring<br />

ecological balance. Grazing in many of the small valley pastures<br />

and estuarine marshes has been restored and safeguarded,<br />

helping to maintain the subtle variation within the landscape.<br />

Enclosure came very late to this area, in the 18th and 19th<br />

centuries, following agricultural improvements fuelled by<br />

high corn prices. Some further reclamation has been carried<br />

out by private landowners since the second world war. The<br />

area now consists mainly of large estates, such as Benacre,<br />

Henham, Sudbourne and Sutton, rather than the small<br />

farms of the adjoining clay plateau. This can give a degree<br />

of uniformity to the landcover, depending on individual<br />

landowner’s attitudes to conservation and shooting.<br />

If the dominant tree in the Suffolk Coast and Heaths area<br />

is now the Scots pine, it was not always so. Staverton Park<br />

still contains 4,000 medieval pollard oaks within its deer<br />

park and some of the mightiest hollies, birches and rowans<br />

in the country. The monks of Butley Priory entertained the<br />

Queen of France to a picnic under these oaks in 1528 and<br />

they withstood the 1987 and 1990 gales far better than the<br />

vast pine plantations that surround them. Elsewhere there<br />

are few oaks for there are few hedgerows to contain them<br />

and very few elms since the outbreak of Dutch Elm disease,<br />

which had more impact here than elsewhere in Suffolk.<br />

Copses and woods have been planted for shooting and<br />

contain a mix of mainly broadleaf species.<br />

The once extensive ‘sandlings’ heaths, created by woodland<br />

clearance and grazing in Neolithic times, are now fragmented by<br />

conifer plantations, agricultural use and development. However,<br />

they remain a significant characteristic in the area, providing<br />

spectacular colour in late summer, internationally important<br />

wildlife habitats and popular areas for recreation, as seen here at<br />

Sutton Common.<br />

The Changing Countryside<br />

● Loss of hedgerow trees, hedgerows and pine lines, due<br />

to a number of factors, has now largely ceased but<br />

management is still an issue. Their absence leads to a loss<br />

of definition and texture within the landscape, especially<br />

in the large-scale arable areas.<br />

● Increase in extensive outdoor pig rearing and the use of<br />

plastic mulches.<br />

● Heathland losses have now ceased except from<br />

development around Ipswich. Local corporate<br />

landowners and wildlife trusts are contributing to<br />

heathland restoration and management assisted by recent<br />

incentive schemes, although reversion opportunities have<br />

still to be fully realized.<br />

● Redevelopment of redundant military facilities is likely<br />

to have significant impact.<br />

● Tourism has been increasing throughout this century<br />

and is now obvious all through the year, albeit with<br />

most impact during the summer months. It is limited<br />

chiefly to the coastal settlements. <strong>Planning</strong> policies<br />

appear to have been successful in curtailing the<br />

development impact of this influx but there are<br />

pressures on land and sea, especially for mooring<br />

facilities in the major estuaries.<br />

● Improvement of the transport infrastructure would have<br />

knock-on effects, with the possibility of creeping<br />

urbanization into the rural parts of this area.<br />

● Coastal erosion and siltation are having a significant<br />

effect on archaeological sites, such as Dunwich and<br />

Covehithe, and coastal squeeze is continuing to result in<br />

loss of salt marsh in some estuaries.<br />

SUFFOLK WILDLIFE TRUST<br />

61

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