CROSS-BORDER SOCIAL DIALOGUE AND AGREEMENTS: An ...

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The ITGLWF’s policy on cross-border dialogue – Miller Figure 7.2. Organization of the Nike supply chain Logistics 700 + suppliers Raw Materials Component Garment & Footwear Assembly Export networks Retail networks Axes Source: Author. Nike contracts production out to some 700 first-tier suppliers, which use the components approved by the company on the basis of global key accounts with supplier firms such as Coats (Miller, 2004), which in turn uses artificial fibre for the core of its industrial yarn supplied by DuPont. Nike products are then shipped by multinational logistics companies such as Maersk and APL. From the ITGLWF’s viewpoint, there may be some interest in cross-border dialogue with Nike on behalf of those 28,000 workers directly employed by the company around the world, notably in regional and national offices, not least because Nike does not have an in-house union (see table 7.2). Having said that, the part of the workforce that represents the real trade union prize ought to be the estimated 800,000 workers who are employed by the Nike contract factories worldwide (Nike, 2007, p. 11). In addition, the peculiarities of the apparel sector, in which supplier factories generally manufacture for a range of brands that may switch their orders to new suppliers on a yearly or monthly basis, mean that it makes little sense for the ITGLWF to network on a brand basis. 9 9 Whether the same argument applies to the negotiation of an IFA is, however, doubtful. 169
Cross-border social dialogue and agreements Table 7.2. Trade union presence in headquarters of multinational companies in textiles, clothing and footwear Name of company Headquarters Product Trade union presence country 1 Sara Lee Corp US Knitwear None Brand App 2 VF Corporation US US Jeanswear None 3 Levi Strauss & Co US Jeanswear Unite Here at distribution centres in US a 4 Jones Apparel US Womanswear None Group Inc 5 Liz Claiborne US US Multiprod. None clothing 6 LVMH-Gruppe France Prêt-à-Porter None Clothing 7 Zara-Ind Dis. Text. Spain Mens- and womenswear HQ not organized but a relationship exists between ITG affiliate and the company. Union presence in the distribution centre and some of the factories in Arteixo b 8 Nike Garment US Activewear None 9 Ralph Lauren US Multiprod. None — Polo clothing 10 Kellwood Co US Multiprod. None clothing 11 Onward Japan Menswear UI Zensen presence in HQ Kashiyama Co clerical but production outsourced c 12 Adidas AG Germany Activewear IGBCE, Works Council, Supervisory Board, EWC d US = United States. Sources: a Unite Here; b CCOO Fiteqa; c UI-Zensen; d IG Metall. Finally, the migration of production from the former manufacturing centres of the buyer blocs such as the United States, European Union and Japan, together accounting for almost 80 per cent of global textile and clothing imports, has entailed a loss of trade union strength. Coupled with the emergence of new-economy brands that adopt a philosophy that may be encapsulated as “not dirtying our hands with production”, the 170
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CROSS-BORDER SOCIAL DIALOGUE AND AG
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Published by the International Inst
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Cross-border social dialogue and ag
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Contributors Dominique Bé, an econ
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Contributors Nathan Lillie is Assis
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Acronyms BWI Building and Wood Work
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Introduction Konstantinos Papadakis
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Introduction - Papadakis each with
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Introduction - Papadakis above. Thi
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Introduction - Papadakis tices unde
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Introduction - Papadakis role of co
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Introduction - Papadakis veaux enje
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Chapter 1 International framework a
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International framework agreements:
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Chapter 3 International framework a
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International framework agreements
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Part 3 Legal dimensions 113
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A report on the European Commission
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Appendix
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