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272144 Vanguard Twin Cylinder OHV BRIGGS & STRATTON.pdf

272144 Vanguard Twin Cylinder OHV BRIGGS & STRATTON.pdf

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Starter Motor<br />

Conditions Affecting Starter Motor Performance<br />

1. Bound or seized starter motor bearings.<br />

2. A shorted, open or grounded armature.<br />

a. Shorted armature (wire insulation worn and<br />

wires touching one another) will be<br />

indicated by LOW or NO RPM.<br />

b. Open armature (wire broken) will be<br />

indicated by LOW or NO RPM and<br />

excessive current draw.<br />

c. Grounded armature (wire insulation worn<br />

and wire touching armature lamination or<br />

shaft) will be indicated by excessive<br />

current draw or NO RPM.<br />

3. A defective starter motor switch.<br />

4. Broken, damaged or weak magnets.<br />

5. Dirty or binding starter drive.<br />

Troubleshooting<br />

If a starting problem is encountered, check the<br />

engine to eliminate it as the cause of the problem.<br />

Check the engine for freedom of rotation by<br />

removing the spark plugs and turning the crankshaft<br />

over slowly by hand.<br />

Test the battery, see page 47.<br />

Engine Cranks Slowly<br />

a. Additional load affecting performance (see<br />

above).<br />

b. Faulty electrical connection (battery circuit).<br />

c. Discharged battery (also see alternators).<br />

d. Dirty or worn starter motor commutator,<br />

bearing, weak magnets, etc.<br />

e. Worn brushes or weak brush spring.<br />

f. Wrong oil viscosity for temperature<br />

expected.<br />

g. Battery leads too long or wire too small.<br />

h. Battery too small.<br />

Engine Will Not Crank<br />

a. Faulty safety interlocks.<br />

b. Discharged or defective battery.<br />

c. Faulty electrical connections.<br />

d. Faulty starter motor switch (open circuit).<br />

e. Open circuit in starter motor.<br />

f. Brushes sticking, etc.<br />

g. Faulty solenoid.<br />

Starter Motor Spins But Does Not Crank Engine<br />

a. Sticking pinion gear due to dirt.<br />

b. Damaged pinion or ring gear.<br />

c. Starter clutch slipping.<br />

d. Battery faulty or damaged.<br />

e. Reverse rotation due to incorrect motor<br />

polarity – all motors rotate counterclockwise<br />

viewed from pinion gear.<br />

Starter Motor Spins But Does Not Stop<br />

a. Defective starter switch.<br />

b. Defective Solenoid<br />

Testing<br />

A fully charged 12 volt battery (5) is required.<br />

Remove starter motor from the engine to test.<br />

1. Assemble starter motor to test bracket.<br />

2. Clamp test bracket in vise, Fig. 51.<br />

CAUTION: Do not clamp motor housing in a vise<br />

or strike with a hammer. Starter motors contain<br />

ceramic magnets that can be damaged if the motor<br />

housing is hit, deformed or dented.<br />

3. The DC Shunt (6) MUST be installed on the<br />

NEGATIVE (-) battery terminal as shown in<br />

Fig. 51.<br />

4. Insert RED test lead (4) into V receptacle in<br />

meter. Connect to RED post terminal on shunt.<br />

5. Insert BLACK test lead (3) into COM receptacle<br />

in meter. Connect to BLACK post terminal on<br />

shunt.<br />

6. Rotate selector to 300mV position.<br />

7. Connect a lead from the POSITIVE (+) battery<br />

terminal to the connector on the starter.<br />

NOTE: If an optional starter switch (2) is NOT USED<br />

connecting the POSITIVE lead will activate<br />

the starter motor.<br />

8. Activate the starter motor. Note reading on<br />

meter and RPM on tachometer (1).<br />

NOTE: Take reading after meter stabilizes (approximately<br />

2 – 3 seconds).<br />

9. A starter motor in good condition will be within<br />

specifications listed.<br />

• Minimum RPM – 6500<br />

• Maximum Amperes – 35<br />

56

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