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88<br />
fashion show became a widespread phenomenon, actresses wearing couture<br />
dresses on stage had performed a similar function and de Wolfe<br />
frequently wore Worth, Paquin or Doucet gowns for her performances.<br />
<strong>The</strong> stage set itself also became a means of propagating fashionable<br />
interior styles, and many domestic dramas of those years were set in fashionable,<br />
eighteenth-century French interiors. Lucile’s early catwalk shows<br />
took place in an interior into which a small stage had been added in recognition<br />
of the pioneering role of the theatre in that context. <strong>The</strong> idea of the<br />
stage-set also encouraged an understanding of the modern interior as a<br />
‘psychic backcloth’ for which the architectural frame was unimportant but<br />
for which the identity and self-expression of the character being enacted<br />
were paramount. <strong>The</strong> idea was transferable to the domestic setting and<br />
became an important component of the modern interior in those years.<br />
While the theatre provided one means of bringing fashionable<br />
dress and the interior into a single frame of reference in the public<br />
sphere, department stores also recognized the important relationship<br />
between them. In the 1850s and ’60s, as we have seen, a number of such<br />
stores were established, including the Bon Marché, the Louvre store and<br />
the Printemps store in Paris, as well as Macy’s and Lord and Taylor,<br />
among others, in New York. In 1869, at the time of the opening of its new<br />
store in Paris, the Bon Marché department store focused on a range of<br />
cheap goods which would appeal to women – nouveautés – from clothing<br />
to fabrics to sewing goods to interior furnishings. Beds were available<br />
from the 1850s and rugs from the 1860s, while the following decade saw<br />
the introduction of tables, chairs and upholstery. Eventually room sets<br />
were constructed in the store. Some displayed deluxe cabinet-work and<br />
others country furniture. Kitchen wares came into the store in 1900. 28 A<br />
decade later complete modern kitchen installations could be found there.<br />
<strong>The</strong> stores provided bourgeois women with complete material<br />
environments. <strong>The</strong>y could purchase a range of goods – from dresses to<br />
furnishing fabrics to lamps. <strong>The</strong> process of shopping for dress and the<br />
components of the interior in a single store served to reinforce the links<br />
between them. 29 In the last years of the nineteenth century and the early<br />
years of the twentieth, the stores also began to take over the earlier role<br />
played by theatres in that context. <strong>The</strong> French couturiers were keen to<br />
show their work on live mannequins on American soil and the department<br />
stores gave them the opportunity to do so. In the 1890s Lord and<br />
Taylor imported designs by Doucet (possibly the source of de Wolfe’s<br />
gowns) while Poiret undertook a tour of American department stores in