Part III: Antarctica and Academe - Scott Polar Research Institute

fort, through an entrance gate and a winding road through low forest, to the fort
proper, near the tip of a peninsula surrounded by Notofagus. The fort was almost
completely rebuilt - log cabins, stockade, turf walled huts, and some exhibits
including an Ohna Indian dugout canoe. The fort was built in 1584 to deny the
straits to English and French ships, when cannon on the shore were a deterrent.
There was a chapel, prison and various workshops and other facilities. I walked
onto the point and down to the shore, where I found a dead, oiled Magellan penguin
and much attractive driftwood - weathered a silver grey. There was also wild
Fuchsia, a flame-red flowered shrub and a lovely Notofagus grove.
On the way back we paid a short visit to the fort of King Felipe II; only the ruins
of its foundations were left. Arrived back in Punta Arenas at 6 o’clock I went to
Comapa (Agents) to talk with Biscoe. Unfortunately the reception was so poor that
we broke it off. The Agent, Patricio, would contact the ship tomorrow at 9 o’clock;
the ETA was an hour later and we could probably move aboard during the morning.
There was Pisco and talk again before dinner, which was lengthy again. A gale was
blowing outside when we retired at 11.15 pm.
It was a fine sunny morning and the wind had dropped during the night. I spoke
with Patricio; the Biscoe ETA was now 12.30 pm. Later Malcom spoke with her and
confirmed we would sail next morning. I walked along to the Museum, next to the
Cathedral. There had been some changes in the 25 years since my last visit, but the
general impression was the same. It was an incredible mixture, perhaps with
proportionally less Ohna Indian material before. On returning to the hotel I found
the Biscoe had been delayed. Eventually we went aboard about 2 o’clock, after lunch
in the hotel. I found everything in good shape and talked for an hour with the two
Captains. The BBC party came aboard and later the remainder of our party. The
ship looked in good shape and everyone seemed happy, though Patrick Crockford,
the Bosun, was a bit worried about getting home for his wedding on 8 May. A bent
propeller meant that power was reduced and so we would lose time even in good
weather and it could make a difference if the weather was bad. Dinner aboard and
talk until 11 o’clock when I turned in.
Next day, Sunday 4 January, we cast off at 7 o’clock, heading for the Falkland
Islands. It was a bright, clear day and we had a good flat passage to the Narrows
where we dropped the Chilean Pilot. We saw the gas installations along the shore -
methane, butane, propane production. They have piers and special ships with
refrigerated containers to carry the liquid gas. I discussed itineraries with Malcolm
and we decided on a revised one to allow for the Geoceiver team to get into Adelaide
and Rothera after flying from Halley. This would involve reversing the South
Shetland Islands periods so that the longer one came first. Then we discussed it with
Birnie and Hansom and later I told the US chaps. There was bright sunshine and a
flat calm for the rest of the day and the landing craft Cruz Australis had no difficulty
coming alongside to pick up the Pilot. I had the film unit up for drinks before dinner
and after dinner we sat and talked over liqueurs. David Smith produced wine for the
wardroom.
[The ship was making 11 knots when I got up at 7.30 am to a bright sunny day
with moderate sea and following wind. A variety of birds was around: wandering
and black-browed albatrosses, giant petrels, Magellan penguins, and black-bellied
storm petrels. At 8 o’clock a group of four dolphins came alongside and I watched
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