Part III: Antarctica and Academe - Scott Polar Research Institute

Force Officer would collect us at 9 o’clock. We had to get our passports stamped, so
Eric and I went to Comapa, the BAS Agents to arrange this and for the luggage and
freight to go to UK on Bransfield. (Charles didn't need a stamp in his passport,
because it didn't get an exit stamp when he flew on an Air Force plane to the
Antarctic, so he had technically been in Chile all the time!). So we left Charles to
meet the officer assigned to look after us, whom we also met when we returned.
Captain Rodriguez was a very nice young man who was married to a girl from the
region and liked living in Punta Arenas. We didn't need to be at the airport until 1
o’clock, so he took us to the Duty Free Zone - a complex of modern stores and
shopping centres with imported goods. Residents in the region don't pay import tax,
legislation which is designed to attract settlement.
We also had time to visit the Instituto de Patagonica, where Leo Guzman showed
us around, in the absence of the Director. They have had some cooperative projects
with UK scientists and were keen to promote more, but had limited funding. We
were told that their basic budget came from the sale of vegetables produced in their
greenhouses! I had been there before, but in the circumstances it was still impressive
as a Research Institute. Unfortunately they had recently suffered staff cuts, now to a
level of about ten scientists and thirty support staff. We had a look at the collections
and the outside collection of living indigenous shrubs - including the ‘calafate’, of
which it is said: "Once eaten the visitor remains in the region". Returning to the hotel
for lunch we found that it wasn't served until 12.30pm, so Captain Rodriguez took us
to the Air Force Club, where we were the only diners, but had an excellent meal
including a superb steak - why can't we manage this in UK? I regretted however,
that we had not been able to give him lunch at our hotel.
Off then to the airport, where we were again given VIP treatment, with a room at
our disposal. While we were waiting we met Mort Turner (NSF, DPP Earth Sciences)
and then were joined by an ebullient Oscar Gonzales Ferran (Professor of Geology,
University if Chile) and John Bengtson. We knew them both and they were on their
way to the Antarctic - Oscar to set up a network of seismic stations on both sides of
the Bransfield Strait; John to help Wayne Trivelpiece with penguin studies and also
to work on fur seals in the South Shetlands. John would be working at BAS again in
March-April. We had a brief chat, all that time would allow, then we were taken to
the 707 and introduced to the Captain. The flight was taking Navy families on leave
to Santiago.
It was a good safe flight and more VIP treatment in Santiago where, as we came
off the aircraft we were met by Colonel Echeverre and an attractive female
Interpreter, who was an architect in the logistics division of the Air Force. Carlos,
from PSNC (BAS Agents) had also come to meet us. Eric decided to take an 11
o’clock flight out that night to Miami; Charles hoped to get a flight to Miami next
day. I found that there was a flight next afternoon to London. So we said goodbye to
Eric and the Air Force car took us to the Hotel el Conquistador (middle range) where
Charles and I had an early dinner. I did some re-packing (mail), wrote up some
notes and got to bed at 11.30 pm. Next day we went to the Agents at 9 o’clock, where
I renewed acquaintance with Felix Ibañez. He had fixed a flight (Varig) for me
leaving at 3.15 pm. An Air Force car was to collect us at 10.30 am for an 11 o’clock
meeting with General Desgroux (Chief of Air Staff, one of the Junta that controlled
the country) and General Lopetegui. Colonel Echeverre arrived with
254