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Part III: Antarctica and Academe - Scott Polar Research Institute

Part III: Antarctica and Academe - Scott Polar Research Institute

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decided that the BAS flight uplifting Peter Clarkson's party from the Shackleton<br />

Range should offload people <strong>and</strong> cargo at the Argentine station Belgrano, <strong>and</strong> then<br />

fly to Halley <strong>and</strong> back. From time to time I also tried to talk with the ‘John Biscoe’ but<br />

without success, although we heard Faraday <strong>and</strong> Halley stations on the air.<br />

Next day the work continued in very dull <strong>and</strong> overcast conditions <strong>and</strong> in heavy<br />

pack ice. Seals were sparse, but we saw five or six family groups <strong>and</strong> several<br />

male:female pairs, as well as two leopard seals. The going was very slow, but we<br />

inched down the west coast of Smith Isl<strong>and</strong>, about fifteen miles offshore. At six in<br />

the evening we sighted a female:pup pair - the first ever seen, as invariably they had<br />

been accompanied by a male. The ship was making very slow progress in thick pack<br />

ice <strong>and</strong> so the seal biologists (excluding Torger <strong>and</strong> me), went over the floes to the<br />

seals about 200 yards away. After they left we noticed from the ship a lone seal<br />

making its way over the ice towards the cow <strong>and</strong> pup raising its head from time to<br />

time to look; probably it was a male. But then it disappeared under the ice <strong>and</strong><br />

wasn't seen again.<br />

The others found an unusual situation. The female had two leopard seal wounds<br />

across her belly, which had ripped away part of one breast, so that milk was leaking<br />

onto the pup <strong>and</strong> the floe. Both pup <strong>and</strong> mother were badly soiled with oil from the<br />

milkfat <strong>and</strong> were in very poor condition; the pup seemed unlikely to survive.<br />

Perhaps the reason no male had joined the pair was that oil had masked the smell of<br />

the female or the pup or both? The ice was locked in tight <strong>and</strong> after dinner we went<br />

over the ice to the pair to do some hydrophone recording. As we walked over the<br />

floes they were moving only slightly, but groaning <strong>and</strong> creaking, with no obvious<br />

spaces of any kind between them. Ian put his hydrophone into the water, but the ice<br />

noises - squeaks, creaks, groans <strong>and</strong> rumbles drowned out other sounds.<br />

Occasionally a harsh, pulsed creaking could be heard, which Ian assured me was a<br />

crabeater. The ship was lit up <strong>and</strong> we took some evocative photographs, before<br />

travelling back in the dark across the glistening, sparkling, snowy floes to the ship -<br />

somehow it was all rather Christmassy.<br />

During the day I managed to speak to Chris Elliot Captain of the ‘John Biscoe’,<br />

who reported that all was well <strong>and</strong> his voyage going according to plan. The ship was<br />

now just south of Dallman Bay <strong>and</strong> so they would be at Damoy on the 'morrow, to<br />

unload <strong>and</strong> then head north again.<br />

A couple of days later we woke to find that we were still stuck in the pack,<br />

although we had made some progress during the night. It was dull <strong>and</strong> overcast<br />

again but still bright enough to require snow glasses. Seven of us set off across the<br />

floes after breakfast to visit a triad about half a mile away. The pup was very large<br />

(length over five feet <strong>and</strong> girth over four feet) <strong>and</strong> just beginning to moult the natal<br />

fur - a milk-coffee colour. Again the male was very pale. We bagged <strong>and</strong> tagged the<br />

adults <strong>and</strong> fitted a radio transmitter around the female's ‘ankle; the transmitter was<br />

the size of a small flat torch battery <strong>and</strong> had a short antenna. The animals were<br />

measured <strong>and</strong> blood <strong>and</strong> toe-nails collected for later study (age estimation). We<br />

decided not to weigh the pup, but it must have been well over 250 lbs. Back across<br />

the tight-packed floes for lunch on the ship.<br />

Then the clouds cleared <strong>and</strong> the sun shone. Smith Isl<strong>and</strong> appeared through the<br />

cloud looking very beautiful <strong>and</strong> impressive with its steep rock <strong>and</strong> ice walls - the<br />

highl<strong>and</strong> ice fluted with avalanche grooves. Later Low Isl<strong>and</strong> emerged <strong>and</strong> we could<br />

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