Part III: Antarctica and Academe - Scott Polar Research Institute

initially horizontal, so the nostrils are the last part of them to submerge - and they
exhale before this. The very calm water and its clarity made it easy to observe this
behaviour. We also saw several fur seals porpoising. It was all most impressive and
spectacular.
In Bransfield Strait off Brabant Island we passed the tourist ship Society Explorer
heading south at about 15 knots. John Reynolds (former Fid) was on board her as a
lecturer and we talked over the radio. There were very good views of all the islands:
Anvers, Brabant, Liège, Two Hummock, Trinity, Christiania. The mainland to the
east was draped with a tablecloth of cloud pouring over from the Weddell Sea. I had
a long talk with Chris Hughes (Summer dentist and King Fid) on the monkey island.
He said I had "gone down well with the Fids" which I was pleased to know! He was
still undecided whether to come down again next season. A film night: "Rape of the
Third Reich" - strange and inconclusive.
We were enveloped in thick mist and driving snow next morning, with quite a
number of bergs around, probably representing the break-up and drift of very large
tabular bergs recently broken off from the Larsen Ice Shelf around the corner in the
Weddell Sea. We had glimpses of Clarence Island and Cornwallis Island, under low
cloud, but I didn't see Elephant Island because of the mank. (Noon position: 60°48'S,
53°51'W). At 6 o’clock on 28 January we arrived at Signy Island in thick fog, with
only occasional glimpses of Outer Islet and Bare Rock from the anchorage. During
the morning it gradually cleared, though remaining overcast - to show Snow Hill and
in late evening the Laws Glacier on Coronation Island. There was trouble initially
when the scow and launch grounded at the exceptionally low spring tide that
uncovered the entire jetty, but we went ashore and had a conversation with Ian
Lovegrove (Summer BC). Then we walked around the base and talked with people
about their work and experiences. After lunch we went over the back slope to the
old base remains (now only the cement bases for the generators) and examined the
original base layout there (Eric was in the party that relieved us in l950). Then to the
dam and Factory Bluffs.
I wasn't feeling at all well that morning, so I saw the doctors and was given some
treatment. At Nelson's suggestion I lay down in the surgery for a couple of hours,
but although it helped I felt worse when I rose, and I was very grey and pale. It was
all rather awkward and embarrassing. The base had of course planned a farewell
celebration, a buffet with wines, so I had to perform. It was in fact a very nice
occasion and enjoyable, though I was in pain throughout. There was a retirement
cake. Ian made a little speech and presented me with a framed photograph of a large
bull elephant seal and I spoke briefly about the old days and the subsequent
evolution of the base. However, I was relieved when the ship's launch came to take
us aboard Bransfield. She had anchored in the usual position, but an iceberg disputed
it so she had had to move. As we went out the stars were bright, pink rocket flares
were fired from shore, the base launch Serolis reflected in the waves, and snow
petrels were picked up by the ship's searchlight, even where the beam seemed not to
reach. Climbing the rope ladder was painful for me and I was glad to fall into my
bunk at midnight. Nelson gave me appropriate pills; I was lucky to have a Professor
of General Surgery sharing my cabin! The plan was for the launch to pick up the
outgoing Doctor and Radio Operator at 6 o’clock, so as to give them longer for the
handover.
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