Part III: Antarctica and Academe - Scott Polar Research Institute

We sailed next morning. I slept, thanks to Nelson's pills, but was in discomfort
when I woke, so didn't go to breakfast. He said he thought, from the symptoms, that
I had a gall bladder problem - I hoped not! My condition worsened during the day
and I took things easily. Nelson gave me some more pills that helped, and ruled that
I shouldn't eat - easy enough because I didn't want to anyway. He decided that his
initial diagnosis was correct, so I would probably starve for several days at least. The
pills adequately killed the pain, but made me sleepy. It was a smooth passage,
initially fairly clear, but becoming foggy. (Noon position: 60°50'S, 47°38'W). Next
day I was still feeling pretty bad and spent the day in and out of bed - reading and
sleeping. We were in thick fog and so again didn't see Elephant Island. (Noon
position 62°45'S, 57°12'W). I was feeling a bit better on 31 January and Nelson
prescribed tea and an occasional biscuit. We now arrived at Gustav Sound, between
Ross Island and the Peninsula, in very heavy ice but managed to get through. Low
stratus made it overcast and the dark, sheer cliffs of the islands were oppressive in
the dullness. There were many seals there, especially leopard seals, like the last time.
Eventually we entered open water and approached the field party ‘Sierra’ who had
camped at the western fringe of a glacier in an unnamed bay, the suggested place
name ‘Sierra Cove’. I watched the operation from the bridge - the launch Erebus,
scow and Humber inflatable. The retrieval of the party was all successfully achieved
we moved out again, through narrow belts of heavy pack, past the various islands, in
moderately clear but overcast weather, and around the corner to Hope Bay.
The Argentine base Esperanza, was quite large and looked well kept. There were
a few people walking about. Two Humbers with twelve people went in to the beach
below the old British base to collect a box of rocks and to look around. I didn't go
ashore but watched from the ship. They walked up to the hut, Eric in charge. There
were two Argentines on a skidoo on the glacier to the east, who hung around and
seemed reluctant to make contact; they turned out to be the Second in Command and
the Doctor. They had had five tourist ships through recently and people had
swarmed all over the base, which they didn't much like. Tomorrow they were
expecting the Almirante Irizar (Icebreaker). Eric gave them a couple of bottles of
scotch. Bill Block and John Davenport had a quick look at the biology. Altogether
they were away for about 11/4 hrs and then we were heading north for Stanley. The
weather improved and we enjoyed a subtle pale sunset. I tidied up my papers and
read.
I then had a good night's sleep, but after three days without eating I was feeling
the lassitude. However it was bright and sunny, with blue sky, and we were passing
through a dense collection of icebergs, so I got up and took a few photos. Nelson
decreed that I could have two pieces of dry toast - which was very welcome! Instead
of heading round the north end of the South Shetlands we had turned left and
headed down the Bransfield Strait and through Boyd Strait. This route avoided the
pack ice which had massed to the east. Now we were on a straight passage to
Stanley. There were some majestic icebergs and some that were curiously
weathered. I spent some time on deck in the warming sunshine and read Medawar's
‘Pluto's Republic’. In the evening I was allowed to have two slices of bread and some
slices of lean ham - it was delicious and life was definitely improving!
2 February was dull and wet, with a rising swell. I attended breakfast for the first
time since my trouble began - Alpen and tea. As we crossed the Antarctic
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