Part III: Antarctica and Academe - Scott Polar Research Institute

ay, filled with a fleet of icebergs at anchor, behind it. This bay was covered with
fast ice now, but last year Bransfield was able to get right in. Still flying low we
looked for the ‘Bob-Pi’ Crossing (of the junction between sheld and inland ice,
named after Bob [--?] and Pi Jarman, who made the first crossing. We found some
of the marker stakes, but weren't able to follow the route through. In fact there
appeared to be a better route now slightly to the north. A gap in the defenses
looked from the air much like the fairway on a lunar golf course, though with some
terrifyingly deep bunkers to the sides!
This seemed a fairly good route through but might be difficult to find on the
surface. It would be worthwhile to prove a new route and I spoke to Brian Jones
about this later. Having done with this we followed the drum line back to the base,
arriving at about 8.20 pm. I paused to talk with Paul and we decided to give the
builders another day, then back to the ship in time for dinner at 10 o’clock. There
were some telegrams to decode and answer so I didn't get to bed until 1.15 am. It
remained fine throughout.
Next day, 8 February, was fine again, but a swell was developing and the ice in
the Chip was breaking up. It was colder again, with a strong wind blowing the
drift off the cliffs. During the morning the last of the outgoing cargo came aboard
and the builders and Paul got back by noon. After lunch I went 'ashore' to look at
some crabeaters and to take some photographs. It was very pleasant in the shelter
of the Chip, the fast ice creaking and groaning in the swell and the drift blowing off
the cliff in a spectacular way, building up the overhanging cornices.
We had planned to sail at 4 o’clock but in the event didn't get away until 5.15
pm, because some difficulty was experienced in retrieving the lines. Then we were
quickly out of the Chip heading south for Vahsel Bay at the head of the Weddell
Sea. The ice headlands were beautifully lit and we passed Emperor Bay, where
there was a flock of c. 200 snow petrels roosting on the fast ice. Halley Bay, Cabo
Rol, Precious Bay and so on came up as we headed south along the coast. It was
still very clear and sunny, but very cold. We came to BPO4, a flag on the Bob-Pi
route , where the ice cliffs were low and there were low ice hummocks on the shelf,
looking like sand dunes. We passed along the front of the Dawson-Lambton
Glacier, much cut up by crevasses, and so to the tongue and the fast ice edge. We
had seen several whales, but now there were scores blowing along the edge of the
fast ice - their blows very conspicuous, like wisps of white cotton wool - against the
low sun. Behind it all was the continent, the inland ice covered with drift snow
which was a golden haze in the low sunlight. Silhouetted against it were deep
purple icebergs. It was interesting to see this from sea level after having seen it so
recently from the air. The whales continued to come and two pairs of emperor
penguins were at the ice edge, as well as a number of Weddell and crabeater seals.
We now moved on along the coast with the continent glowing golden in the
haze of drift snow, throwing it into relief as the ridges were lit up by the slanting
rays. There were two spectacular concentrations of grounded bergs - the second
one in the area that led to Shackleton's Endurance getting trapped in the ice in
[1914]. These bergs, with their heavy crevassing and blocky nature were unusual
and atypical of this coast, unlike the usual tabular bergs. So we passed on down
that coast appreciating the magnificent scenery and colouring. There were very
strong offshore winds in places, without any obvious cause. Areas side-by-side
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