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Part III: Antarctica and Academe - Scott Polar Research Institute

Part III: Antarctica and Academe - Scott Polar Research Institute

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the community was clearly a happy one. I went into various problems, from the<br />

hoary one of dissatisfaction with communications with HQ, to ‘women in the<br />

Antarctic’. After tea I had a discussion with Al Smith Dad Etchells, Joe Farman, John<br />

Nutt <strong>and</strong> Mike Smith about the proposals for extension <strong>and</strong> refurbishment of the<br />

base. I had suggested doing away with the loft in the extension <strong>and</strong> making it into a<br />

2-storey building with bunk-rooms above <strong>and</strong> this was accepted as the best solution.<br />

We went on to discuss other matters. The ice came in <strong>and</strong> so Stuart radioed to ask if I<br />

required him to send a launch in to collect me before it got too thick. I decided to<br />

stay ashore <strong>and</strong> had a pleasant evening in the lounge with the base members. The<br />

French trio were there <strong>and</strong> Jean showed slides of their travels - including the ascent<br />

of Pumori in the Himalayas, which were really excellent. He was a very unusual <strong>and</strong><br />

attractive personality <strong>and</strong> we spoke at length during the evening. They had seen<br />

minke, killer <strong>and</strong> right whales near the Peninsula. One of the South Georgia Fids<br />

also showed excellent slides of that isl<strong>and</strong>. I went to bed at midnight in the surgery<br />

bed!<br />

There was heavy snow during the night <strong>and</strong> we woke to a whiter world on 17<br />

February. I spent the morning talking to the Fids <strong>and</strong> took a few photographs. A<br />

minke whale was blowing nearby. Later in the morning I spoke for 11/2 hrs to the<br />

whole base <strong>and</strong> discussed problems with them. I asked for the removal of their<br />

budgerigar - Jimmy Byrd - which had figured in telegrams <strong>and</strong> was a mystery, but<br />

was contravening the Antarctic Treaty Act by being there! It all went off quite well<br />

<strong>and</strong> I had more individual <strong>and</strong> small group discussions. The main problems concern<br />

the leaking of the Braithwaite tank, (fuel oil storage) which needed attention <strong>and</strong> the<br />

generator shed floor. I went off to the ship in the last launch <strong>and</strong> we set sail in<br />

overcast conditions, southwards through concentrations of icebergs, then westwards<br />

<strong>and</strong> then north to avoid heavy pack ice concentrations. That evening in the pack was<br />

really lovely, with many seals lying out amongst beautifully sculptured bergs. I<br />

spoke with Dave Fletcher (Field Operations Manager) at Rothera <strong>and</strong> arranged for<br />

some flights.<br />

Next day, a Sunday, was overcast, with ice blink alternating with water sky on<br />

the horizon. There were armies of icebergs, pale <strong>and</strong> ghostly in the diffused lighting.<br />

As we broke up the floes by our passage pieces overturned <strong>and</strong> exposed the brown<br />

layer of ice diatoms. The ship was in moderate pack most of the day <strong>and</strong> we<br />

managed to keep up a speed of 7 knots. Adelaide Isl<strong>and</strong>, now to the east of us was in<br />

cloud <strong>and</strong> there were uninterrupted ice cliffs undulating along the coast <strong>and</strong> heavily<br />

crevassed. I wrote a number of messages to be sent next day, did more writing <strong>and</strong><br />

reading <strong>and</strong> some washing. I listened to some of Stuart's music cassettes during the<br />

afternoon. I was invited to dinner in the Superfiddery <strong>and</strong> there was talk until<br />

midnight. I thought I had escaped a cold, but next day it was back with a vengeance.<br />

We anchored for the night off Jenny Isl<strong>and</strong> in Marguerite Bay <strong>and</strong> moved off in the<br />

morning about 8 o’clock for Rothera, in overcast <strong>and</strong> low stratus cloud, reaching the<br />

base an hour later. We tied up with the bows aground at ‘Honeybucket’, connected<br />

the fuel lines <strong>and</strong> began pumping. I had a talk with Dave Fletcher <strong>and</strong> concluded<br />

that all was well. The pumping of 138 tons of fuel into the pillow tanks on the ridge<br />

was completed by 3 o’clock that afternoon <strong>and</strong> then we slipped the moorings <strong>and</strong><br />

steamed slowly south into South Bay to break up the ice. The ship went in very close<br />

to the beach, at one point touching bottom about five yards offshore, which had<br />

164

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