Part III: Antarctica and Academe - Scott Polar Research Institute

of Adelaide Island and quickly met a heavy swell, which made life uncomfortable.
The sea condition worsened as we proceeded, so we reduced to half speed during the
night, the searchlight playing on the waves ahead, its beam lighting some to
translucent jade as it shone through them. Small petrels fluttered confused in the
beam. Very heavy weather continued through the night and next day. We were now
accompanied by many birds: black-browed and grey-headed albatrosses and one
light-mantled sooty, the latter very pale on the back, almost white. There were cape
pigeons, silver-greys, Antarctic petrels, skuas and Wilson's storm petrels, but no
giant petrels or snow petrels.
On 6 March we arrived off Argentine Islands at 8 am, in slight swell and overcast
skies. There were many beautiful rocky islets, some with small ice caps and narrow
channels running between them. The Peninsula Mountains looked very rugged and
inaccessible in the background. I went in to base by gemini about 9.30 am and was
met by Alex Scott (BC). On the way in we passed several groups of crabeaters
swimming - up to a dozen in each group. Alex showed me around the base and my
first impressions were that it was in good shape and all the men seemed cheerful
enough. "Tweekie" (Ionosphericist) had volunteered to do a third year at South
Georgia, to help-out with a problem. I had a good look around and was impressed.
After lunch I gave them my usual talk about the crisis, financial situation, job
prospects etc, and the new Cambridge HQ. Again there was considerable interest
and discussion.
Meanwhile after a long wait I called up the Biscoe only to learn that the launch
had left half an hour ago. It was eventually found drifting and in trouble. Because
the wind had got up the ship had to move out and we cancelled the film show for the
base and took only the outgoing Fids aboard. It was a long, very cold and wet trip
back. We had a film in the wardroom "Paint Your Wagon". Next day I had an early
breakfast and visited Wordie House on Winter Island, a former base. With Barry I
went in the gemini, through the narrow channels and inspected the hut, which was
still in reasonable shape, but likely to deteriorate rapidly if it was not repaired. We
returned through the narrow channel from Stella Creek to the east, which meant
running under a huge, looming, ice cliff some 200 ft high. The channel was so
narrow that there was no alternative but to pass under the overhanging ice masses.
Later in the day, as the temperature rose, it would not have been a justifiable risk.
Meanwhile the ship had weighed anchor, and moved in to meet us, so we were
back aboard in about 11/2 hrs, and Biscoe left for Palmer Station. The weather
continued overcast as we passed Petermann Island, Cape Tuxen very obvious and
the Argentine refuge hut on [ ] Island, and so to the entrance to Lemaire Channel,
which really is a superb feature. On either side were towering cliffs of rock and ice,
with mountains rising steeply above and a narrow channel - about 300 yards - superb
grandeur and beauty - I was entranced. On some ice in this strait, within a small
area, were eight leopard seals, a crabeater and two Weddells. All too soon we were
through and the clouds then rose to disclose a sunny Anvers Island to the north, with
sunny yellow mountains. Doumer Island came in sight. Cape Renard, at the
northern entrance to Lemaire Strait is a couple of sheer rock turrets (unofficially
known as "Una's Tits" - for obvious reasons. Una was a noted beauty in the Falkland
Islands when I first went there in the l940s). It was all very beautiful and the scenery
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