Part III: Antarctica and Academe - Scott Polar Research Institute

move to UK, but Crown Agents would take over a large part of the work for two
years until the Stanley end catches up; Lewis Clifton's high-handedness – [CC] to
take up with him. I talked about BAS plans and problems, but got the distinct
impression that Rex was not very interested. I also raised the possibility of buying
the M/V Forrest – but this never came to anything.
Then we went off to lunch. George was in good form and we caught up on the
news over a drink. Lunch at the Captain's table - Captain Aye (George: "Aye-aye
Sir!") a German; several other guests: the Hunts, Senior Naval Officer FI (SNOFI),
Captain Erskine (a keen botanist), and David Taylor. We each had to make a little
speech to entertain the passengers. I sat near the tour organizer and his assistant - a
very attractive American girl. The ship was registered in Singapore, with a
Singaporean crew and German officers. They were invited to tea at GH. George
showed me all over the ship. It had two large bars, large dining room, observation
lounge and a very well appointed lecture room. George and two assistants gave
about 50 lectures during the 3-week trip. There was a good library and a swimming
pool. The cabins were comfortable with foldaway bunks to make more room. They
had very good inflatables for landings - heavy duty - and two excellent large
launches. It was really quite impressive.
I went back ashore and walked up to the rugger pitch on top of the hill, where
Bransfield was playing the town team - kick-off 3.30 pm - in a strong oblique wind.
The pitch was on the hill above GH and next to a fenced-off area, mined during the
War. Bransfield wore yellow strip, the town blue. The local team was much heavier,
played five replacements and had played together before. Our side had several who
had never played rugger before and they had been at sea for a while, so relatively
unfit. The score was 18-3 against us, but this was very creditable. However Andy
Baker (Chief Officer) cracked his sternum. We were back on board about 6 o’clock.
Tim Dobbin, a kelper (local) came aboard after dinner and was talking about his
experiences during the recent War; he was at Bluff Cove. He said he remembered me
from 30 years ago! Eric Salmon said a lot of people were asking after me ashore, but
unfortunately I didn't remember them. I did a wash that evening and went to bed
about midnight.
Next day I finished writing my letters and at 12.45 pm we gave a luncheon party
for Rex and Mavis Hunt, SNOFI, two Air Commodores, and three other MOD
people, David Taylor and Myriam. The curry lunch went down well. I talked with
all the guests, but mainly with the Hunts. We covered quite a lot of ground; they
were clearly very disenchanted with the FCO and with the local Military.
We sailed at 4 o’clock in brilliant sunshine and a light breeze, past the well-known
places - Sparrow Cove, Yorke Bay, Cape Pembroke, and out into the swell,
accompanied by many birds. Our course was set for slightly south of west. The film
after dinner was "Nicholas and Alexandra", quite good, but much too long, about
31/2 hrs. We crossed to South Georgia with a swell from the south west behind us,
bright sunshine and lots of birds, and arrived at Bird Island at 3.30 am. There was a
heavy swell there and conditions were not good. The base personnel went ashore at
4.30 am and necessary visitors later - to install radio, computer etc. We were at
anchor all day, almost due east of the base. Many groups of fur seals were coming in
past the ship, porpoising in the swell, in mixed groups of differing sizes (? male and
female). They were also playing in the sea, occasionally mock-fighting,
236