Part III: Antarctica and Academe - Scott Polar Research Institute

we should be in Bird Sound c. 4 o’clock, possibly able to land, but the weather was
variable. Up and down to the bridge as a variation. We continued through Stewart
Strait and around the SW end of Bird Island, getting good views of the big Macaroni
penguin colony on the inlet – opposite ‘Hibitane Hut’. Turning the corner the SE
side of Bird Island came into view and then Jordan Cove (where the base lies). In fact
we anchored c. 11.40 am close inshore near the fringing kelp.
At 1 o’clock we went ashore in the cargo tender, through the biting wind wearing
life jackets. The cargo was unloaded and taken by the Fids up to the base – 100 yards
or so. There were some fur seal bulls, one elephant, two king penguins and two
gentoos on the beach. I decided not to get involved in the unloading – at the end of
the jetty, then pushing wheeled trolleys up a wooden walkway to the base. There
were plenty of strong young people about! So I had a good look around the base,
met Maggie the BC, formerly GA and Winter BC at Rothera. She seemed very
pleasant, in her 30s?, slight, athletic, pleasant smile, ‘in control’. Dafydd, a large
quiet Welshman, very charming; Nick with blond dreadlocks and rapid interesting
talker; Martin an Australian was also very pleasant. Dafydd is a seal biologist, Nick
and Martin also. All good chaps and we had plenty of interesting conversation. We
entered the base and looked around, had a cup of coffee. All very impressive. The
main base hut was open plan, with plenty of character, and comfortable office chairs.
Various ancillary huts - for generators, biostores, chippy, travel stores, compactor
(for waste), workshop – all in one. It was much as I remembered, but larger with
more facilities and more comfort than in 1987, my last visit. It was very pleasing to
see the progress made.
Outside there were numbers of fur seal males around taking up stations, also one
or two elephants, two king penguins and two gentoos. Several loads came in on the
cargo tender and were transported to the base. I got very cold just standing around
talking to people – Martin, Dafydd and Nick. The wind was biting and brought
snow. Eventually we were taken off to the JCR in the tender – me feeling very cold
indeed! The meal had been put back to 7 o’clock and I had a few G & Ts and some
wine, so quickly warmed up and the evening ended in mellow fashion. There was a
lovely sunset over the hills with blue sky showing. The Fids were to start again at 4
o’clock, but I would choose a more civilised hour. E-mails from Eric and Martelle.
Maureen now safely back home.
Another fine bright morning arrived with the hills shining in the sunshine, but
cold. A small swell was worsening, and the tender was loading when I went up to
the bridge. The work had begun at 4 o’clock and they had done three boatloads so
far. Jerry thought he would have to up-anchor and retrieve the shore party when it
got back. Yesterday we did three loads and in all there are 12-15 to be taken ashore,
including some very heavy packages. In a swell the operation could become
dangerous, the block of the cargo crane swinging about, and uplifting the tender
difficult with the motion. The wind was increasing too. I took some photos of the
operation and went down to breakfast.
However, conditions improved a bit and I had a chance to go ashore in the
inflatable with Niel, Pippa and Steve (RO). Kitted-up in immersion suit, life jacket
and helmet it was a cool, rough ride into the calm waters of the cove. I found
everyone ashore relaxing in between scow loads. Martin (Australian) said he would
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