Part III: Antarctica and Academe - Scott Polar Research Institute

electric shock with different patterned programmes. In use the strength is gradually
increased until the shock is at a maximum. It seemed to help.
Jerry and I had been invited to dinner with the Lurcocks and I didn’t realise that
shore time here was an hour ahead of onshore, so when J. rang to check I hadn’t
changed and hurried over it. Pippa was there just for drinks and the other guests
were Tim and Pauline Carr, Peter Wilmott (i/c the main Morrison’s construction
team who reached King Edward Point two weeks ago). We had an excellent meal,
starting with toothfish cheeks – delicious – then lamb cutlet stew and vegetables,
followed by a choice of desserts – I had a fruit salad. Good wine and talk. Wilmott
had been 18m in Azerbaijan on a project and had some interesting experiences to
recount. Back to the JCR about 11 o’clock and Jerry came in for a nightcap and
further chat.
A perfect day followed. All the mountains were snow-covered and clear and new
ice had formed in the bay. I took a few photos from the bridge. I kitted-up, applied
the sun block and went ashore. The unloading continued. I walked to the Lurcock’s
house to see Pat, and we talked until about 10 o’clock about his job, plans for KEP
development etc. We consumed coffee and cake, while the elephant seals roared
outside. He showed me around Discovery House where I lived and worked in 1951
as Base Commander. It was now rather sad, very untidy, filled with rubbish, planks,
broken windows, stripped of furnishings. I identified my bedroom, office and
wetlab, also the kitchen and lounge, of the FIDS base but it was difficult to visualise it
all as it used to be, because walls had been pulled down or moved, so the layout was
not as I remembered it. There are now several large rooms where before there were
many small ones, etc. It was to be reclaimed, refurbished and converted, probably
into a visitor centre and museum.
I walked over to the elephant seals and spent some time watching their activities.
I counted about 95 including five bulls and in addition about 60-70 pups. Pat
pointed out one pup that had been ‘weaned’ at 14 days – rather early. I saw two
bulls attempting to copulate with cows, unsuccessfully. One also made advances
towards a pup, biting its neck and trying to draw it into a mating position. The pup
was yapping all the time and its mother became very agitated. I took a few photos,
but the light wasn’t good – it had begun to snow – and I returned to the ship and
signed in again. It was fairly calm but the weather deteriorated throughout the day
and by mid afternoon even Susa Point and Hestesletten were obscured.
I lunched, bought some first day covers from Sarah, who set up the PO on board
and stamped my passport. In the afternoon I read the SG Development Plan, which
is a worthy attempt – some inaccuracies though. Around 4 o’clock I went up onto
the bridge and watched the elephants again. Two large bulls were fighting fiercely,
slashing and biting at each other; the vapour on the air from their mouths indicated
they were roaring. It was violent action. But then another large bull approached
them – one of the first pair broke away and the others engaged in an even more
violent struggle, each stretching very high to gain advantage and menace the other.
This fight went on for c. 15 minutes, one of the most sustained and vicious I could
remember seeing. Both bulls were covered in blood – head, chest and back down to
the fore-flippers – bright red. Eventually one got the upper hand and drove the other
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