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Part III: Antarctica and Academe - Scott Polar Research Institute

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naval transport HMS Apollo, bearing mail for Bird Isl<strong>and</strong>. On 13 December the swell<br />

seemed to have subsided so the launch went in to Bird Isl<strong>and</strong> on a test run <strong>and</strong><br />

returned to take a flubber load in. Our luck had changed. I went in with this about 9<br />

o’clock; we had quite a rough ride ashore, mainly at the mouth of Bird Sound where<br />

the swell seemed to be higher. The trip took about 40 mins <strong>and</strong> later Bransfield<br />

moved closer to shorten the later trips. Again there were numbers of furries<br />

porpoising about the boats. At the base end the beaches were very crowded <strong>and</strong> the<br />

team ashore had built an avenue of oil drums to keep a path open from the furries<br />

attentions. I found the base much changed since my last visit. The new living <strong>and</strong><br />

laboratory hut was well fitted out. The former living hut was now the generator<br />

shed plus food store. The duckboarding was well constructed <strong>and</strong> well laid out. The<br />

other small huts comprised emergency store, travelling store, carpenter's workshop<br />

<strong>and</strong> outside (rough) laboratory.<br />

Peter Prince (Albatrosses) showed us around. Meanwhile another flubber came<br />

ashore <strong>and</strong> was unloaded at the jetty. Fur seals were everywhere; the pups gather<br />

around the huts when they leave their mothers at weaning <strong>and</strong> crowd every space.<br />

Perhaps we should try an electric fence to keep them out of the way, <strong>and</strong> to create<br />

seal-free areas for tussac regeneration experiments. Paul Copestake (Biology<br />

Assistant ?) took me over to the special study beach, through the tussac, past<br />

belligerent bachelor bulls, then down a rope on the cliff to the overhead walkways<br />

<strong>and</strong> a small hide. One gets very close to the seals that way. We discussed the<br />

programme of research. Back to the hut. The swell was now diminishing <strong>and</strong> it had<br />

become a nice day. The extra people ashore had been working hard on the base<br />

equipment that needed attention: Russ Clark (Central heating engineer) overhauled<br />

that system; Barry Peters had gone over the radio equipment. Dick Kressman<br />

(Physicist) had the computer working <strong>and</strong> had been improving the software.<br />

Meanwhile stores were still coming ashore.<br />

Ben Osborne (Birds) took Eric Salmon <strong>and</strong> me up the hill past the teal pond <strong>and</strong><br />

through the meadows to the top with the scattered nests of w<strong>and</strong>ering albatross,<br />

giant petrels, skuas. We saw the South Georgia pipits in numbers <strong>and</strong> yellow-billed<br />

teal on the ponds, both indigenous species found nowhere else. The turf was very<br />

springy, or spongy with the feel of bog underneath <strong>and</strong> here <strong>and</strong> there deep waterfilled<br />

holes. Over then to a field hut; Ben was working on skuas <strong>and</strong> the pairs we<br />

saw seemed very tame. They allowed us to go right up to their nests - some with<br />

eggs, others with the beautiful pale brown chicks, still with the white egg-tooth on<br />

their glossy black bills. From that hut we went over to a grey-headed albatross<br />

colony used for Peter Prince's nest-weighing work. It had a small hide - called<br />

Hibitane House, which was also used for the recording equipment associated with<br />

the artificial nests. The hut looked across to the large macaroni penguin rookery <strong>and</strong><br />

out beyond to the Willis Isl<strong>and</strong>s. We walked over to the rookery to observe the<br />

macaronis at close quarters. Then back to the base, through the albatross colony with<br />

the large, immaculate, dodo-like birds, including some dark fuzzy young - about a<br />

year old. The first eggs were just being laid.<br />

We climbed down to a light-mantled sooty albatross's nest near a colony of blackbrowed.<br />

Then down to the shore, through the tussac <strong>and</strong> the seals. We arrived just<br />

as the final scow-load of cement came in. Time for a cup of tea <strong>and</strong> a last look<br />

around, while the cement was being unloaded. Then we went out to the<br />

239

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