Part III: Antarctica and Academe - Scott Polar Research Institute

also some black-browed albatrosses, Dominican gulls, skuas and ducks. Also I saw
three sealions swimming, heads held high out of the water, looking around. It was
very warm and sunny, almost tropical in feel. We dropped the Pilot, the landing
craft giving us a couple of hefty bangs. When the tide was with us we were doing
about 12 knots. I spoke with Stuart on the radio about the marine geophysics work
and drafted some more telegrams, and wrote some notes on the events of the last
week. There was a message from Inigo. As night fell the eastern entrance to the
straits was behind us and the oil and gas fires lit up both shores and were reflected in
the water – truly Terra del Fuego, Land of Fire. We were beginning to rise to the swell
from the Atlantic as I went to bed.
The next two days we were in sunshine and a light swell from the north and we
were heading due east. More birds accompanied us: wanderers, black-browed, giant
petrels, diving petrels and prions. I wrote up my notes on the recent events and did
some calculations which indicate we lost six days and would have steamed an extra
555 miles, by not going to the South Orkneys rather than Punta. Shackleton and
Endurance came up on the Goon Show. We arrived at Stanley on 20 February, to find
that the Walter Herwig and Weser were at anchor. These were two German research
ships investigating the fisheries potential of the South Atlantic. We anchored inshore
of them and went through the usual formalities. The mail came aboard and there was
only one letter for me from Maureen; the earlier ones had all been sent on to UK
because they had assumed that I would be flying from Punta Arenas. Naturally I
was very disappointed.
I went ashore at 3 o’clock for a chat in the office and to have my photograph taken
for a white card (immigration), to see me through Argentina. I arranged definitely to
fly out on Monday and from Buenos Aires on Wednesday 25 February. I also
borrowed a Land Rover until I left. Inigo Everson came into the office. He had been
part of the team on the Walter Herwig, clearly fitted in well and been useful to the
Germans as well as learning a lot himself; he was a good ambassador. It would be in
his report so I didn't need to write about it now. I invited him for dinner on the
Biscoe.. Then just as I was expecting him there, I had a message from the Governor,
asking me to go along to see him and for Biscoe not to sail until I got back. Clem
drove me along and I had 3/4 hrs with Governor Neville French. The main point he
wanted to make was that Bransfield should not tow the magnetometer north of 60°S,
so as not to exacerbate the situation with Argentina. I agreed to send an appropriate
signal and later drafted it for Bob Wade to send. I was late back for dinner, but we
sat and talked until 11.15 pm because Malcolm decided not to sail at 8 o’clock after
all. The trouble was that Tim Fogg, one of the Fids, had gone out to the camp for a
few weeks. Although he was due back on Monsunen at 7 pm., he didn't get aboard
Biscoe until 9 pm, by which time it was too dark for Malcolm to sail! (Tim’s father was
Tony Fogg, Chairman of my Advisory Committee back home). So I sent a message to
the Upland Goose (local hotel) and had another night aboard. I arranged to go on
board Walter Herwig at 7.30 am for breakfast.
I went ashore at with my luggage, which I left at the BAS Office and then in the
launch to the Walter Herwig. Inigo was waiting at the top of the ladder and
introduced me to Dr Pomeranz, the Chief Scientist. We had breakfast and then
Pomeranz gave me a quick tour of the ship, starting at the bridge. It was wellequipped
in every way: Magnavox satellite navigator, various echo-sounding
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