Part III: Antarctica and Academe - Scott Polar Research Institute

could see the coast on the radar screen. The wind whipped the sea into white spume
forming in the water, then blown horizontally off the tops of the waves on the wind.
There were few birds – GPs, BBA, Cape pigeons. Our ETA Grytviken was 2 o’clock,
but as we nosed into Cumberland Bay snow squalls limited the visibility we could
see the coastline only occasionally through the mists and spray. Our average sped
was just under 12 knots.
We anchored about 2 pm near Hobart Rocks, still in a white blankness. About 4
o’clock I looked out and saw King Edward Point, with Shackleton House black
against the snow – about half an inch of new snow which came down to sea level.
The other buildings were less easily identified, some of them, painted white, faded
into the background. On the beach I could see the black slug-like shapes of the
breeding elephant seals (c.40 of them). Beyond, still in the white shroud was the
Horse Head and Hestesletten shore, with more elephant seals just to be seen.
Visibility varied in the snow squalls and williwaws, but didn’t extend for far along
the Hestesletten shore; we couldn’t see Grytviken whaling station itself. I chatted on
the bridge with the Captain and others until 5 o’clock. ‘Pippa’ Browning, the Doctor,
gave me sun lotion (factor 30 UVA protection) and some UVA lip salve which later
proved too be necessary. A few blue-eyed shags flew by. There were discussions
with Pat Lurcock ashore (the Civil Administrative Officer) and at 5.30 pm the first of
three trips in the army’s ‘rigid raiders’ took the Morrison’s team of builders ashore.
They were to construct a new research station for BAS fishery scientists.
Before supper I sorted out computer problems over the e-mails. There was an
one in from Maureen; the weather was poor in Estoril and they are heading north
that day. I hoped she received my e-mail before leaving. After supper I chatted in
the lounge with Les Whittamore, BAS Coordinator for South Georgia. We expected
to be here for 3 days. The path to Grytviken whaling station was closed because of
the avalanche danger, so the only way off KEP was by boat! Later JCR moved out of
the cove and kept to a position in East Cumberland Bay just north of KEP. I
continued reading “The Dons”. Visited the bridge, the wind gusting to 40 kts and
two searchlights were lighting up the drift snow.
At 6.30 am on 24 October we were coming alongside the KEP jetty. I stood on the
bridge as the vessel was mooring – a lengthy process with two lines, bow and stern,
to shore, two lines midships to the jetty. After breakfast I kitted up and went ashore.
It was cold with a bitter wind, but clear and the Barff Peninsula was shining in the
sunshine, also Dartmouth Point, Hestesletten, Brown Mountain and Mt Hodges. I
went down the gangway about 8.30 am and there I met Pat Lurcock and Dave
Mitchell (formerly BAS) down with Morrison’s team as an electrician. I walked
through the ‘settlement’ past the Post Office, (former) Radio Office, Discovery House
(my erstwhile home fifty years ago) Quigley’s, the Jail etc. to Shackleton House and
on to Shackleton’s cross among the tussocks.
I stopped to watch the elephant seals on the way and noted there were many
black pups c. 7-10 days old. A large dominant male and several subordinate males
put on a display. There were some attempted matings, but it was too early in the
season – the cows would come on heat in about ten days time. The pups ranged in
age from a few days to c. 15 days. I took in the well-remembered behaviour, smells
and sounds. Overall, there was little activity. Some males were ‘fighting’ in the sea,
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