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Sykes' History of Persia Vol 2 (pdf) - Heritage Institute

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2 3 8 HISTORY OF PERSIA<br />

colleges, but, like Vambery, I award the palm to the<br />

stately pile <strong>of</strong> Gauhar Shad.<br />

The Madrasa at Khargird. Near Khaf, on the Perso-<br />

Afghan frontier, is situated a college which was erected<br />

during the reign <strong>of</strong> Shah Rukh, as I learned from its<br />

inscriptions.<br />

The edifice was massively built and is still<br />

in good condition, covering an area <strong>of</strong> five-sevenths <strong>of</strong> an<br />

acre.<br />

It was designed in the usual form <strong>of</strong> a quadrangle,<br />

with a noble gateway, and in the interior there were four<br />

fine porticoes.<br />

The coloured bricks were still intact at the<br />

time <strong>of</strong> my visit, but the exquisite mosaics were badly<br />

damaged.<br />

I noted their colour as sapphire -blue, with<br />

green, yellow, and white, the motive <strong>of</strong> the pattern being<br />

conventional Kufic lettering. Fine dark-blue tiles with<br />

conventional flowers in light blue, white, and gold had<br />

originally covered the walls, the finest being great stars,<br />

but these, alas ! had been almost entirely<br />

carried <strong>of</strong>f. On<br />

either side <strong>of</strong> the main gate was a domed building, decorated<br />

with most artistic plaster mouldings. The panelling<br />

consisted <strong>of</strong> dark-blue tiles relieved by hexagons <strong>of</strong> white<br />

marble. This noble pile<br />

is now deserted and falling<br />

into<br />

decay, but my visit made me realize what a dazzling blaze<br />

<strong>of</strong> blue splendour<br />

it must have presented at the time <strong>of</strong><br />

its completion in A.H. 848 (1445).<br />

The Mahun Shrine. In the <strong>of</strong> vicinity Kerman, at<br />

Mahun, is a beautiful shrine erected in memory <strong>of</strong><br />

Sayyid Nur-u-Din, better known by<br />

his title <strong>of</strong> Shah<br />

Namat Ulla, who flourished in the reigns <strong>of</strong> Tamerlane<br />

and Shah Rukh. The Shrine is entered by an imposing<br />

gateway supported by two minarets, the predominating<br />

colour <strong>of</strong> which is a bluish green. Two gigantic old<br />

chinars or Oriental planes give that particular touch which,<br />

in conjunction with the bright sunlight, shows tiles to the<br />

best advantage. The oblong court which is first entered,<br />

together with the gateway, was erected by Mohamed Shah<br />

<strong>of</strong> the Kajar dynasty, and is<br />

consequently modern. A<br />

second courtyard with old-world rooms lies behind the<br />

first ;<br />

it was the gift <strong>of</strong> Sayyid Nisa, a disciple <strong>of</strong> the<br />

Saint. From this the blue dome is seen at its best ;<br />

indeed, the main building, consisting<br />

<strong>of</strong> a central chamber

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