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Sykes' History of Persia Vol 2 (pdf) - Heritage Institute

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286 HISTORY OF PERSIA CHAP.<br />

<strong>Persia</strong>, into decay, yet remains a superb sample<br />

<strong>of</strong> the<br />

style <strong>of</strong> the Safavi kings."<br />

The Ala Kapi. On the east side <strong>of</strong> the Maydan is<br />

which the<br />

situated the Ala Kapi, or " L<strong>of</strong>ty Gate," by<br />

royal palace was entered. It may more correctly be<br />

described as a building in the form <strong>of</strong> a great arch on<br />

which was constructed a talar^<br />

or open throne-room, supported<br />

by the wooden columns which form a distinctive<br />

feature <strong>of</strong> Safavi architecture. Enthroned in state, the<br />

Shah gave audience at the No Ruz, or New Year, in this<br />

hall, which is declared by Chardin to be "le plus beau<br />

Sallon de cette sorte que j'aye<br />

vu au monde." His<br />

Majesty also witnessed polo matches, horse races and<br />

wild beast combats from this same building,<br />

in which he<br />

was visible to thousands <strong>of</strong> his subjects<br />

who filled the<br />

great square.<br />

The Chehel Sutun. The Ala Kapi leads into the vast<br />

gardens, in which were many palaces.<br />

The most important<br />

building is the Chehel Sutun, or " Forty Columns." 1<br />

This splendid throne-room, with its ro<strong>of</strong> constructed <strong>of</strong><br />

the boles <strong>of</strong> great plane trees and supported by twenty<br />

columns made <strong>of</strong> the same tree, was formerly wainscoted<br />

with white marble, surmounted by mirror-work set in<br />

facets. Behind this verandah is the actual throne-room,<br />

from which opened a dais supporting the throne. Small<br />

rooms on either side were destined for the ministers<br />

and for service, and behind, extending the entire length<br />

<strong>of</strong> the building,<br />

is a long gallery with three immense oilpaintings<br />

on each side, three <strong>of</strong> which are reproduced in<br />

this work. To quote again from Lord " Curzon, they<br />

transport us straight to the court <strong>of</strong> the lordly Abbas and<br />

his predecessors<br />

or successors on the throne. We see<br />

the king engaged in combat, or at some royal festivity,<br />

enjoying the pleasures <strong>of</strong> the bowl. The big moustaches<br />

and smooth chins, and abundant turbans, represent a<br />

fashion <strong>of</strong> coiffure that has long expired. The arms and<br />

accoutrements <strong>of</strong> the warriors, the instruments <strong>of</strong> the<br />

musicians, the very gestures <strong>of</strong> the dancing-girls, open to<br />

1<br />

The number "Forty"<br />

is not intended to be taken literally, any more than in the<br />

caie <strong>of</strong> Periepolis, which also has for one <strong>of</strong> its names the " Forty Columns."

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