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Sykes' History of Persia Vol 2 (pdf) - Heritage Institute

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CHAPTER LXV<br />

ARCHITECTURE AND ART UNDER THE SAFAVI<br />

DYNASTY<br />

Isfahan is half the world. <strong>Persia</strong>n Proverb.<br />

Isfahan, the Safavi Capital. The masterpieces <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>Persia</strong>n architecture under the Safavi monarchs are mostly<br />

to be found at Isfahan, and I therefore propose to describe<br />

the Safavi capital and some <strong>of</strong> its chief buildings which<br />

I have examined. 1 To do so is to describe the golden<br />

prime <strong>of</strong> medieval <strong>Persia</strong>n architecture, which still serves<br />

as a model to-day, except in the cities <strong>of</strong> the north where<br />

Russian - designed houses have been adopted by the<br />

imitative sons <strong>of</strong> Iran.<br />

The Royal Square. Isfahan is situated on the left or<br />

north bank <strong>of</strong> the Zenda Rud, on a level fertile piece <strong>of</strong><br />

land, and at its zenith may have had a population <strong>of</strong><br />

three hundred thousand inhabitants. Its heart was the<br />

Maydan-i-Shah, or " Royal Square," enclosed by long<br />

ranges <strong>of</strong> double-storied buildings Herbert declared it to<br />

;<br />

be " as spacious, as pleasant and aromatick a Market as<br />

any<br />

in the Universe." The dimensions <strong>of</strong> the Maydan are<br />

560 yards by 174 yards, and, as it was the royal polo<br />

ground, these measurements are <strong>of</strong> some interest. 2 The<br />

game <strong>of</strong> polo reached the height <strong>of</strong> its popularity at the<br />

period we have now reached, and matches are described<br />

by both Sherley and Chardin. 8 The marble goal -posts<br />

1<br />

In addition to my own notes, I have consulted Curzon's <strong>Persia</strong> and Coste's Monuments<br />

modernes de la Perse ;<br />

also the article on <strong>Persia</strong>n Art in Encyclop. <strong>of</strong> Religion and<br />

Ethics, ed. by James Hastings.<br />

2<br />

The present measurements <strong>of</strong> a polo ground are 300 by 200 yards.<br />

3 Vide Ten Thousand Miles, etc., p. 342,<br />

these travellers.<br />

where I have collected the accounts <strong>of</strong><br />

284

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