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The Land of the Lune - Drakkar Press

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106 Chapter 6: Middleton Fell<br />

a doctor and social reformer known for his<br />

treatment <strong>of</strong> cholera in Manchester in 1832,<br />

after which he wrote an influential book, <strong>The</strong><br />

Moral and Physical Condition <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Working<br />

Classes Employed in <strong>the</strong> Cotton Manufacture<br />

in Manchester. In 1842 Kay married Janet<br />

Shuttleworth, daughter <strong>of</strong> Robert Shuttleworth<br />

<strong>of</strong> Gawthorpe Hall, Burnley, who had long<br />

owned land in Barbondale. Sir James Kay-<br />

Shuttleworth, as he became, retired here in<br />

1872 after his wife died.<br />

Since 1910 <strong>the</strong> curving drive up to Barbon<br />

Manor has been <strong>the</strong> site for <strong>the</strong> Barbon Sprint<br />

Hillclimb, which is part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> British Hillclimb<br />

Championship. <strong>The</strong> aim is to drive a vehicle<br />

up <strong>the</strong> 800m course as fast as possible. While<br />

no doubt a challenge for mechanics, it seems<br />

to be a sport <strong>of</strong> great simplicity and (I imagine)<br />

great noise.<br />

Below <strong>the</strong> manor Barbon Beck passes<br />

behind <strong>the</strong> neat village <strong>of</strong> Barbon. Barbon is ancient,<br />

being listed in <strong>the</strong> Domesday Book as Berebrune, but<br />

hides its heritage. St Bartholomew’s Church was built in<br />

1893, on <strong>the</strong> site <strong>of</strong> a 17 th century chapel, all sign <strong>of</strong> which<br />

was <strong>the</strong>reby removed. It was built in <strong>the</strong> perpendicular<br />

style by <strong>the</strong> Lancaster-based firm <strong>of</strong> Paley & Austin,<br />

which had a national reputation for its ecclesiastical<br />

buildings.<br />

<strong>The</strong>re is a distinctive quality about <strong>the</strong> buildings <strong>of</strong><br />

Edward Paley and Hubert Austin, featuring<br />

majestic towers, recessed spires and well-lit<br />

naves, but, according to <strong>The</strong> Victorian Society,<br />

“<strong>The</strong> later work <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Austin and Paley era<br />

took on a squared-<strong>of</strong>f Gothic look and became<br />

stereotyped and conventionalised … <strong>The</strong>re<br />

was a loss <strong>of</strong> zest though still much to admire”.<br />

Since Paley died in 1895 this may be thought<br />

to apply to <strong>the</strong> Barbon church. But probably<br />

<strong>the</strong> quotation is referring not to <strong>the</strong> aforementioned<br />

gentlemen but to <strong>the</strong> firm <strong>of</strong> Paley<br />

& Austin, which continued, through <strong>the</strong>ir sons,<br />

until 1942.<br />

More recently, new buildings have hidden<br />

traces <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Lowgill-Clapham railway line and<br />

station, which only closed in 1966. <strong>The</strong> 17 th<br />

century Barbon Inn still survives, however,<br />

and <strong>the</strong> sheep still graze, if ra<strong>the</strong>r tweely, in<br />

<strong>the</strong> paddock by <strong>the</strong> memorial cross.<br />

Barbon Manor<br />

Below Hodge Bridge, Barbon Beck passes under no<br />

less than four functional footbridges that enable golfers<br />

to get from one part <strong>of</strong> Kirkby Lonsdale golf course to <strong>the</strong><br />

o<strong>the</strong>r. <strong>The</strong>se bridges lack <strong>the</strong> charm and, I am sure, <strong>the</strong><br />

durability <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> narrow packhorse bridge by Beckfoot<br />

Farm. It is natural to wonder where <strong>the</strong> packhorses were<br />

heading: did <strong>the</strong>y use <strong>the</strong> two bridleway fords across <strong>the</strong><br />

<strong>Lune</strong> marked on <strong>the</strong> map? Today <strong>the</strong> fords seem usable<br />

only very rarely.<br />

St Bartholomew’s Church, Barbon<br />

This is Chapter 6 <strong>of</strong> <strong>The</strong> <strong>Land</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Lune</strong> (2nd edition), http://www.drakkar.co.uk/land<strong>of</strong><strong>the</strong>lune.html, Copyright © 2010 John Self

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