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<strong>The</strong> River Wenning ...<br />
<strong>The</strong> Wenning has <strong>the</strong> most dramatic birth <strong>of</strong> all <strong>the</strong><br />
<strong>Lune</strong>’s tributaries. It springs forth at Swine Tail<br />
just below Ingleborough’s plateau, ga<strong>the</strong>rs a few<br />
more becks to form Fell Beck, and <strong>the</strong>n plunges headlong<br />
into <strong>the</strong> awesome chasm <strong>of</strong> Gaping Gill, Britain’s most<br />
famous pothole.<br />
<strong>The</strong> waters fall 111m, making it Britain’s largest<br />
unbroken waterfall, according to <strong>the</strong> Guinness Book <strong>of</strong><br />
Records. <strong>The</strong> hole was first descended (intentionally) in<br />
1895 by <strong>the</strong> French caver, Edouard Martel. He mapped<br />
<strong>the</strong> main chamber, which is large enough, it is <strong>of</strong>ten said,<br />
for York Minster to be fitted in. However, <strong>the</strong> latest laser<br />
technology has measured <strong>the</strong> chamber as 136m by 46m,<br />
and <strong>the</strong>refore <strong>the</strong> nave and transepts <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> minster (at<br />
159m by 75m) would be seriously damaged by any such<br />
attempt.<br />
You can judge for yourself by taking <strong>the</strong> winch that<br />
local potholing clubs fit up at bank holiday weekends.<br />
It is <strong>of</strong>ten said that it is free to go down ... but <strong>the</strong>re’s a<br />
charge to come up. In fact, <strong>the</strong>y insist that you pay at <strong>the</strong><br />
top, in case you should disappear forever underground.<br />
No, I must be fair: <strong>the</strong>y are most solicitous about our<br />
well-being and careful to count us all down and count us<br />
all up again.<br />
It is certainly an unforgettable<br />
experience, as you sink slowly in<br />
<strong>the</strong> cage below <strong>the</strong> diminishing<br />
skylight, past <strong>the</strong> green, <strong>the</strong>n grey,<br />
<strong>the</strong>n black, walls <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> cavern, in<br />
<strong>the</strong> shower <strong>of</strong> Fell Beck (although<br />
most <strong>of</strong> it has been kindly diverted<br />
away). On <strong>the</strong> floor <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> cavern,<br />
<strong>the</strong> water largely percolates<br />
away through <strong>the</strong> boulders and<br />
it is possible to scramble around<br />
searching into various crannies <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> chamber. After a while, nontroglodytes<br />
would like to escape<br />
– and <strong>the</strong>n a problem becomes<br />
clear: what goes down must come<br />
up. On <strong>the</strong> surface, a numberedticket<br />
queuing system enables you<br />
to lounge around, having a picnic,<br />
smiling as people return drenched<br />
and blinking, as you wait your<br />
turn. Below, <strong>the</strong>re isn’t: you must<br />
<strong>The</strong> River Wenning ... 155<br />
stand in line. And if you waited 45 minutes in <strong>the</strong> sun on<br />
top, you will have to wait 45 minutes in <strong>the</strong> cold, dark<br />
Fell Beck shower below (or even longer, as potholers<br />
tend to enter <strong>the</strong> cavern from elsewhere and lazily take<br />
a ride out).<br />
I see that <strong>the</strong>re is now a leaflet advertising <strong>the</strong>se<br />
bank holiday treats and that <strong>the</strong> winch now operates for<br />
a week. It’ll be a permanent tourist attraction soon, with<br />
a snack bar and souvenir shop nearby, and umbrellas for<br />
<strong>the</strong> queue below.<br />
<strong>The</strong> geology <strong>of</strong> Gaping Gill is as we have come to<br />
expect. Water streams <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> gritstone on <strong>the</strong> eastern<br />
slopes <strong>of</strong> Ingleborough and <strong>the</strong>n disappears into <strong>the</strong><br />
limestone layer. Faulting has occurred at Gaping Gill to<br />
enable such a large chasm to form. <strong>The</strong> Fell Beck water<br />
<strong>the</strong>n makes its way underground over <strong>the</strong> impermeable<br />
slate and eventually emerges in Clapdale at <strong>the</strong> cave<br />
spring <strong>of</strong> Beck Head to become Clapham Beck.<br />
Potholers have found a difficult and dangerous way<br />
through from Gaping Gill to Beck Head but over ground<br />
we must make our way through <strong>the</strong> more appealing Trow<br />
Two pages before: Austwick and Norber.<br />
Below: Gaping Gill.<br />
This is Chapter 10 <strong>of</strong> <strong>The</strong> <strong>Land</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Lune</strong> (2nd edition), http://www.drakkar.co.uk/land<strong>of</strong><strong>the</strong>lune.html, Copyright © 2010 John Self