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The Land of the Lune - Drakkar Press

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Kingsdale Beck<br />

Most visitors to Kingsdale intend to go through<br />

or under it, which is less than it deserves. <strong>The</strong>y<br />

are ei<strong>the</strong>r using <strong>the</strong> road between Dent and Thorntonin-Lonsdale<br />

or <strong>the</strong>y are aiming to tackle <strong>the</strong> potholes<br />

arrayed along <strong>the</strong> sides <strong>of</strong> Kingsdale.<br />

Kingsdale is a fine upland valley, flanked by<br />

Whernside to <strong>the</strong> east and Great Coum and Gragareth<br />

to <strong>the</strong> west, with its limestone scars below <strong>the</strong> millstone<br />

grit tops providing superb views. It can be lonely and<br />

wild but also, on sunny summer days, balmy and serene.<br />

It would perhaps have its deserved appeal to tourists if<br />

it reverted to its full name <strong>of</strong> Vikingsdale – some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

names here (Yordas, Braida Garth) are <strong>of</strong> Norse origin,<br />

as indeed are ‘beck’ and ‘dale’.<br />

<strong>The</strong> valley runs straight from north to south for<br />

7km with only 1½ farmsteads in it – Braida Garth and<br />

Kingsdale Head. <strong>The</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r ½ <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> latter is a holiday<br />

cottage. <strong>The</strong> head <strong>of</strong> Kingsdale is 3km above Kingsdale<br />

Keld Head Scar in Kingsdale<br />

Kingsdale Beck 133<br />

Head, where <strong>the</strong> road between Whernside and High Pike<br />

begins to drop down steeply to Dentdale. Kingsdale<br />

Beck ga<strong>the</strong>rs <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> peaty slopes <strong>of</strong> Great Coum and<br />

Whernside but, like Barbon Beck to <strong>the</strong> north, comes<br />

and goes a few times. It has usually gone between<br />

Kingsdale Head and Keld Head. This is convenient for it<br />

means we can follow <strong>the</strong> new ‘conservation path’ across<br />

<strong>the</strong> beck to investigate <strong>the</strong> Apronfull <strong>of</strong> Stones. This<br />

20m-diameter ring <strong>of</strong> stones, with gaps to <strong>the</strong> east and<br />

west (<strong>the</strong> latter probably from beck erosion), is a Bronze<br />

Age burial cairn.<br />

Directly opposite is Yordas Cave, which was one<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> first tourist attractions in <strong>the</strong> Dales. <strong>The</strong> aforementioned<br />

Reverend Hutton said <strong>of</strong> Yordas Cave:<br />

“Having never been in a cave before, a thousand ideas<br />

… were excited in my imagination on my entrance<br />

into this gloomy cavern … As we advanced ... and <strong>the</strong><br />

gloom and <strong>the</strong> horror increased, <strong>the</strong> den <strong>of</strong> Cacus, and<br />

<strong>the</strong> cave <strong>of</strong> Poliphemus came into my mind [sadly, our<br />

knowledge <strong>of</strong> Greek mythology is not what it was] …<br />

This is Chapter 8 <strong>of</strong> <strong>The</strong> <strong>Land</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Lune</strong> (2nd edition), http://www.drakkar.co.uk/land<strong>of</strong><strong>the</strong>lune.html, Copyright © 2010 John Self

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