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166 Chapter 10: <strong>The</strong> Wenning Headwaters<br />
<strong>The</strong> now well-established Wenning passes under<br />
Clapham Viaduct, which, unlike earlier viaducts,<br />
has no aes<strong>the</strong>tic merit. <strong>The</strong> viaduct carries <strong>the</strong> Leeds-<br />
Lancaster railway line. <strong>The</strong> original plan was to build<br />
<strong>the</strong> Lowgill-Clapham line via Ingleton first but work on<br />
this was suspended and instead <strong>the</strong> branch to Lancaster,<br />
completed in 1850, became <strong>the</strong> main line, with <strong>the</strong><br />
Lowgill line eventually completed in 1861. <strong>The</strong> line to<br />
Wennington runs down <strong>the</strong> Wenning valley, naturally<br />
without all <strong>the</strong> meanders <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> river, which it crosses<br />
seven times in all.<br />
Just beyond <strong>the</strong> viaduct <strong>the</strong> Wenning is joined<br />
by Jack Beck, which runs past Jack Beck House,<br />
where painting courses are run by <strong>the</strong> painter Norma<br />
Stephenson. I like her description <strong>of</strong> her modus operandi<br />
for producing her semi-abstract pastels <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> nor<strong>the</strong>rn<br />
fells: “dissatisfaction sets in ... almost always ... because<br />
<strong>the</strong> painting has become too explicit. Radical measures<br />
are required ... I will <strong>of</strong>ten dribble water into <strong>the</strong> pastel,<br />
causing rivulets and textured effects, or I will sweep my<br />
hand across <strong>the</strong> surface to remove detail.” I have tried<br />
this with <strong>the</strong> creation you are reading, to no great benefit,<br />
alas. I conclude that it is not a work <strong>of</strong> art.<br />
Beyond <strong>the</strong> new Skew Bridge, Keasden Beck joins<br />
<strong>the</strong> Wenning.<br />
Keasdendale<br />
Keasden Beck<br />
Our journey has taken us to many hidden and unknown<br />
becks but compared to Keasden Beck <strong>the</strong>y are all<br />
gaudily extrovert. Nobody seems ever to have written<br />
a good or bad word about Keasden Beck. <strong>The</strong>re are<br />
no postcards <strong>of</strong> Keasdendale (in fact, I may have just<br />
invented ‘Keasdendale’). In <strong>the</strong> 4km from Gregson’s<br />
Hill to Turnerford Bridge <strong>the</strong>re are no footpaths in <strong>the</strong><br />
valley or across it. <strong>The</strong>re is no road in <strong>the</strong> valley: all<br />
<strong>the</strong> farmsteads are reached by private tracks from <strong>the</strong><br />
Clapham to Bowland Knotts road.<br />
However, now that all <strong>of</strong> Burn Moor above <strong>the</strong><br />
pastures has been made CRoW land we can at least gain<br />
a long distance view into this secretive valley. Burn<br />
Moor is tough going: all hea<strong>the</strong>r, grass tussocks and bog.<br />
When it was restricted to grouse shooting Burn Moor<br />
was called <strong>the</strong> ‘forbidden moor’: now, ‘forbidding’<br />
would be a better word. <strong>The</strong>re is a good path on springy<br />
peat (in summer) along <strong>the</strong> ridge from Bowland Knotts<br />
to Great Harlow (486m) and over Thistle Hill, but<br />
elsewhere walking is a struggle. Should your eye catch<br />
upon Ravens Castle and Raven’s Castle on <strong>the</strong> map,<br />
be warned that <strong>the</strong>re are no castles, although <strong>the</strong>re are<br />
ravens. And yet <strong>the</strong>re is compensation up here. <strong>The</strong><br />
This is Chapter 10 <strong>of</strong> <strong>The</strong> <strong>Land</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Lune</strong> (2nd edition), http://www.drakkar.co.uk/land<strong>of</strong><strong>the</strong>lune.html, Copyright © 2010 John Self