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The Land of the Lune - Drakkar Press

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166 Chapter 10: <strong>The</strong> Wenning Headwaters<br />

<strong>The</strong> now well-established Wenning passes under<br />

Clapham Viaduct, which, unlike earlier viaducts,<br />

has no aes<strong>the</strong>tic merit. <strong>The</strong> viaduct carries <strong>the</strong> Leeds-<br />

Lancaster railway line. <strong>The</strong> original plan was to build<br />

<strong>the</strong> Lowgill-Clapham line via Ingleton first but work on<br />

this was suspended and instead <strong>the</strong> branch to Lancaster,<br />

completed in 1850, became <strong>the</strong> main line, with <strong>the</strong><br />

Lowgill line eventually completed in 1861. <strong>The</strong> line to<br />

Wennington runs down <strong>the</strong> Wenning valley, naturally<br />

without all <strong>the</strong> meanders <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> river, which it crosses<br />

seven times in all.<br />

Just beyond <strong>the</strong> viaduct <strong>the</strong> Wenning is joined<br />

by Jack Beck, which runs past Jack Beck House,<br />

where painting courses are run by <strong>the</strong> painter Norma<br />

Stephenson. I like her description <strong>of</strong> her modus operandi<br />

for producing her semi-abstract pastels <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> nor<strong>the</strong>rn<br />

fells: “dissatisfaction sets in ... almost always ... because<br />

<strong>the</strong> painting has become too explicit. Radical measures<br />

are required ... I will <strong>of</strong>ten dribble water into <strong>the</strong> pastel,<br />

causing rivulets and textured effects, or I will sweep my<br />

hand across <strong>the</strong> surface to remove detail.” I have tried<br />

this with <strong>the</strong> creation you are reading, to no great benefit,<br />

alas. I conclude that it is not a work <strong>of</strong> art.<br />

Beyond <strong>the</strong> new Skew Bridge, Keasden Beck joins<br />

<strong>the</strong> Wenning.<br />

Keasdendale<br />

Keasden Beck<br />

Our journey has taken us to many hidden and unknown<br />

becks but compared to Keasden Beck <strong>the</strong>y are all<br />

gaudily extrovert. Nobody seems ever to have written<br />

a good or bad word about Keasden Beck. <strong>The</strong>re are<br />

no postcards <strong>of</strong> Keasdendale (in fact, I may have just<br />

invented ‘Keasdendale’). In <strong>the</strong> 4km from Gregson’s<br />

Hill to Turnerford Bridge <strong>the</strong>re are no footpaths in <strong>the</strong><br />

valley or across it. <strong>The</strong>re is no road in <strong>the</strong> valley: all<br />

<strong>the</strong> farmsteads are reached by private tracks from <strong>the</strong><br />

Clapham to Bowland Knotts road.<br />

However, now that all <strong>of</strong> Burn Moor above <strong>the</strong><br />

pastures has been made CRoW land we can at least gain<br />

a long distance view into this secretive valley. Burn<br />

Moor is tough going: all hea<strong>the</strong>r, grass tussocks and bog.<br />

When it was restricted to grouse shooting Burn Moor<br />

was called <strong>the</strong> ‘forbidden moor’: now, ‘forbidding’<br />

would be a better word. <strong>The</strong>re is a good path on springy<br />

peat (in summer) along <strong>the</strong> ridge from Bowland Knotts<br />

to Great Harlow (486m) and over Thistle Hill, but<br />

elsewhere walking is a struggle. Should your eye catch<br />

upon Ravens Castle and Raven’s Castle on <strong>the</strong> map,<br />

be warned that <strong>the</strong>re are no castles, although <strong>the</strong>re are<br />

ravens. And yet <strong>the</strong>re is compensation up here. <strong>The</strong><br />

This is Chapter 10 <strong>of</strong> <strong>The</strong> <strong>Land</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Lune</strong> (2nd edition), http://www.drakkar.co.uk/land<strong>of</strong><strong>the</strong>lune.html, Copyright © 2010 John Self

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