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64 Chapter 4: Upper Raw<strong>the</strong>ydale<br />
Sea and waters to <strong>the</strong> west flow (via <strong>the</strong> <strong>Lune</strong>) to <strong>the</strong><br />
Irish Sea. <strong>The</strong> eastern boundary <strong>of</strong> Loyne forms <strong>the</strong><br />
national divide for about 8km, over Widdale Fell to<br />
Great Knoutberry Hill and Wold Fell.<br />
Needlehouse Gill runs in a narrow valley, over<br />
waterfalls and past caves, by Needle House and<br />
Uldale House, two <strong>of</strong> a line <strong>of</strong> farmsteads among <strong>the</strong><br />
small conifer plantations on <strong>the</strong> nor<strong>the</strong>rn slopes <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
Raw<strong>the</strong>y. <strong>The</strong>re are actually two ra<strong>the</strong>r fine houses at<br />
Needle House and surely <strong>the</strong> only barn we’ll see with<br />
a belfry. Uldale House farms 2500ha on Baugh Fell<br />
Common and <strong>the</strong> farmer <strong>the</strong>re, Harry Hutchinson, is<br />
<strong>the</strong> chair <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Federation <strong>of</strong> Cumbrian Commoners,<br />
formed in 2003 to help ensure that policy-makers<br />
understand <strong>the</strong> importance and complexity <strong>of</strong> farming<br />
on common land. Currently, <strong>the</strong>re is concern that <strong>the</strong><br />
Countryside Stewardship Scheme, which pays farmers<br />
to greatly reduce sheep numbers in order to enhance <strong>the</strong><br />
environment, will threaten <strong>the</strong> commons sheep grazing<br />
tradition.<br />
Raw<strong>the</strong>y Cave, in which have been found human<br />
remains from about 1500 BC, is on <strong>the</strong> south bank <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> Raw<strong>the</strong>y, on <strong>the</strong> slopes <strong>of</strong> Bluecaster. <strong>The</strong> old track<br />
across <strong>the</strong> flank <strong>of</strong> Bluecaster drops down to <strong>the</strong> river,<br />
where, as you would expect, <strong>the</strong>re used to be a bridge<br />
– a bridge <strong>of</strong> some importance, it would seem, since in<br />
1586 Queen Elizabeth wrote to those responsible for its<br />
upkeep saying that “she marvels at <strong>the</strong>ir negligence in <strong>the</strong><br />
execution <strong>of</strong> her former orders concerning <strong>the</strong> rebuilding<br />
<strong>of</strong> Raw<strong>the</strong>y Bridge.” Perhaps <strong>the</strong> word ‘execution’<br />
spurred some action.<br />
<strong>The</strong> old bridge is no more but <strong>the</strong>re’s a fine newer<br />
one 50m downstream, built in 1820 with a single semicircular<br />
arch. <strong>The</strong>re’s a minor puzzle here. It is said that<br />
two children’s faces were carved in <strong>the</strong> bridge. <strong>The</strong>re<br />
seems to be space for a rectangular display on <strong>the</strong><br />
two sides <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> bridge but perhaps <strong>the</strong> displays have<br />
fallen out. On <strong>the</strong> west side <strong>the</strong>re is a face, but that <strong>of</strong> a<br />
bewigged gentleman, it seems to me. On <strong>the</strong> east side,<br />
<strong>the</strong>re are what, if viewed generously, could be two eyes<br />
and a nose. What it means, if anything, is a mystery.<br />
Just below <strong>the</strong> bridge <strong>the</strong> nicely named Sally Beck<br />
enters <strong>the</strong> Raw<strong>the</strong>y.<br />
Above: According to <strong>the</strong> OS map, this is Joseph’s<br />
House on Swarth Fell (Joseph wasn’t in when<br />
I called).<br />
Left: Raw<strong>the</strong>y (or Uldale) Force.<br />
This is Chapter 4 <strong>of</strong> <strong>The</strong> <strong>Land</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Lune</strong> (2nd edition), http://www.drakkar.co.uk/land<strong>of</strong><strong>the</strong>lune.html, Copyright © 2010 John Self