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The Land of the Lune - Drakkar Press

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<strong>The</strong> <strong>Lune</strong> from Borrow Beck ...<br />

Just beyond <strong>the</strong> Borrow Beck junction at Low<br />

Borrowbridge <strong>the</strong>re is a flat, green field that seen<br />

from <strong>the</strong> fells on ei<strong>the</strong>r side looks like a sports arena,<br />

which in a way it was because until <strong>the</strong> late 19 th century<br />

a large sheep fair used to be held here, with associated<br />

sports and o<strong>the</strong>r activities. But long before that, from <strong>the</strong><br />

1 st to <strong>the</strong> 4 th century, this was <strong>the</strong> site <strong>of</strong> a Roman fort.<br />

Somehow this fact became forgotten, despite <strong>the</strong><br />

reminder <strong>of</strong> Borrow (or burgh) Beck, until it was rediscovered<br />

in <strong>the</strong> early 19 th century. This is especially<br />

surprising since <strong>the</strong> site has been relatively undisturbed<br />

by later building. <strong>The</strong> fort measures 130m by 100m,<br />

adequate for five hundred soldiers. It lies on <strong>the</strong> Carlisle-<br />

Chester route and is <strong>the</strong> first <strong>of</strong> three sites <strong>of</strong> Roman<br />

forts that we will meet. Excavations in <strong>the</strong> 20 th century<br />

have confirmed <strong>the</strong> layout <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> fort but seem to have<br />

uncovered few remains. More has been found at <strong>the</strong><br />

cemetery to <strong>the</strong> south, including a tombstone with <strong>the</strong><br />

touching inscription (not in English, <strong>of</strong> course): “Gods<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> underworld, Aelia Sentica lived for 35 years.<br />

Aurelius Verulus erected this stone for his loving wife”.<br />

Although <strong>the</strong> outline <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> fort is clear, <strong>the</strong>re is not much<br />

<strong>The</strong> <strong>Lune</strong> from Borrow Beck ... 47<br />

to see on <strong>the</strong> ground, only ramparts along <strong>the</strong> line <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

old walls and on <strong>the</strong> west side a few ditches. Some claim<br />

that, ignoring <strong>the</strong> railway, motorway and A685 (quite a<br />

feat), <strong>the</strong> line <strong>of</strong> an aqueduct can be made out running<br />

towards <strong>the</strong> fort from <strong>the</strong> slopes below Grayrigg Pike.<br />

Grayrigg Pike is seen by many but noticed by few.<br />

<strong>The</strong> steep crags and slopes around Great Coum and<br />

Little Coum make <strong>the</strong>m <strong>the</strong> most scenic cliffs we have<br />

met so far but <strong>the</strong> rebounding noise <strong>of</strong> M6 traffic lessens<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir appeal to walkers.<br />

<strong>The</strong> <strong>Lune</strong> passes under Salterwath Bridge. We have<br />

met a few ‘wath’s already and, as you might suspect, it<br />

is an old word (Viking, in fact) for a ford. <strong>The</strong> bridge<br />

itself was last rebuilt in 1824. At about this point, <strong>the</strong><br />

drove road that followed <strong>the</strong> <strong>Lune</strong> from Greenholme<br />

swung west to skirt Grayrigg and climbed to <strong>the</strong> <strong>Lune</strong><br />

watershed, which it more or less followed south to<br />

Kirkby Lonsdale.<br />

Beyond Low Carlingill farm, <strong>the</strong> <strong>Lune</strong> meets <strong>the</strong><br />

most dramatic beck <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Howgills, Carlingill Beck.<br />

Two pages before: Chapel Beck, looking towards<br />

Bush Howe.<br />

Below: Low Borrowbridge.<br />

This is Chapter 3 <strong>of</strong> <strong>The</strong> <strong>Land</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Lune</strong> (2nd edition), http://www.drakkar.co.uk/land<strong>of</strong><strong>the</strong>lune.html, Copyright © 2010 John Self

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