Ternate - Smithsonian Institution Libraries

TERNATE 18 TOPOGRAPHY AND TRAVEL DESCRIPTIONS
usually received. There are not many adjoining rooms, but they are sufficient in number
for the Sultan and his family, since the married children rarely live in the palace. [p. 27]
Visits from the Resident to the Sultan are characterized by a few customs which,
because of their traditional nature, are generally observed. Any departure from these
customs is made only reluctantly. 5
Although the afternoon is the time for paying visits in native society here, in recent
years the Resident has instituted a change. This was done so as not to disturb the saying of
prayers at sunset—these prayers are faithfully observed at the palace. Usually by seven
o’clock the Sultan sends the yellow calash down to pick up the Resident and his family. 6
The calash is drawn by sixteen people, who move slowly so that they will not damage the
rickety vehicle. One cannot expect this vehicle to be particularly solid, since it has been in
use for a half century. A certain superstition is attached to its preservation, however, as if
the Sultanate would fall were it to be taken out of service. For this reason it is patched up
over and over again. Its step has not survived the course of time, and one has to climb in
with the help of a lamp-step.
Twenty torchbearers, accompanying the procession, light their bamboo cylinders
filled with damar; this smoky illumination gives the procession a fantastic appearance, and,
in a place where nothing much happens, young and old come out of their houses to witness
this spectacle.
It takes about half an hour for the Resident to reach the palace. When the carriage
arrives, the Sultan, surrounded by six guards with lighted candles, receives the Resident at
the foot of the stairs and escorts him, arm in arm, upstairs. The reception is held in the
inner gallery, where a [p. 28] sofa or chairs with red velvet cushions have been prepared.
The Resident is seated at the right hand of the Sultan. 7
A tray with sirih (betel) is kept ready on a small table. When the two leaders are
seated, a servant comes with water for washing; this is declined with a small motion of the
hand. At once tea is served, followed by candied fruit which must be tasted before the
conversation can start. If requested beforehand, the lego and dadangsa [dances] are
performed. Eight to twelve elegantly dressed women form a procession and honor the
authorities in the accepted manner, a musician in old-fashioned uniform gives the key on
his clarinet, and the women sing several welcoming songs in honor of the visitors while
dancing in a style slightly resembling the Javanese tandak. When the women have
5 [p. 27, n. 1] The Sultan of Tidore’s receptions have a more western tinge and, because of their
poor form, are usually less satisfactory.
6 [p. 27, n. 2] This carriage is a gift from the government. (See below, “Short Chronicle,” p. 176,
n. 2 [as corrected in Errata —Trans.].)
7 [p. 28, n. 1] When the Sultan visits the Resident the same formalities are observed, with the
difference that the secretary helps the Sultan down from the carriage. The Resident receives the
Sultan at the top of stairs, and the two enter the room arm in arm. On formal occasions the greeting
consists of three embraces, carried out with the required formality, and etiquette demands that
immediately after the visit a note be sent to inquire whether the visit was agreeable.
SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION LIBRARIES DIGITAL EDITION