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Ternate - Smithsonian Institution Libraries

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TERNATE 45 TOPOGRAPHY AND TRAVEL DESCRIPTIONS<br />

V<br />

Tidore, Makian, Kayoa and the West Coast of Central Halmahera<br />

[p. 67] From the capital there are three ways to reach the islands which lie to the<br />

south: one between Maitara and the southeast coast of <strong>Ternate</strong>, a second between Maitara<br />

and the west coast of Tidore, and a third between the eastern part of the island Tidore and<br />

the mainland of Halmahera. All three are navigable for bigger ships, although the routes<br />

have not been completely and properly recorded. The two latter ways are mostly followed<br />

by native vessels, which prefer to take the calmer route instead of exposing themselves to<br />

the higher wash of the waves in the completely open sea to the west.<br />

For this trip we follow the second route, crossing, for that purpose, from the jetty at<br />

<strong>Ternate</strong> to Maitara, which compared to the cone of Tidore looks like little more than a hill.<br />

On many maps this island is called “Norway,” a name never heard of on <strong>Ternate</strong> and<br />

certainly not due to any resemblance with the Norse fjords. [p. 68] Many fishermen live on<br />

the beach where it has a gentler incline, on the side facing Tidore. On the mountain top,<br />

approximately twelve hundred feet high, a signal post has been erected. From here the<br />

approach of steam- and sailing vessels around the south and the west is announced using<br />

prearranged signals. 1 Maitara is overgrown with a dense mass of coconut trees, tended<br />

with care by the Tidorese inhabitants since these palms do not thrive on Tidore. 2<br />

The island of Tidore does not have much of a beach; the terrain rises almost<br />

immediately into a series of hills, some of which reach a height of one thousand to fifteen<br />

hundred feet. Most of these hills are arable, as can be seen from the many cleared areas.<br />

The peak is situated on the south side. 3 Whether it is a volcano or not cannot be said with<br />

certainty since no eruptions have occurred during the historic era. 4 On the top, of which<br />

the last fifty meters are very steep and can only be climbed with the help of rattan, is a<br />

small lake. Its depth has never been determined and it is overrun with creepers and ruturutu<br />

(the Nepenthes species). On September 6, 1866, a mud flood occurred on the slope of<br />

the mountain above the [p. 69] kampong Tuguiba. Thirty-two people were injured, all of<br />

1 [p. 68, n. 1] Bleeker in his Travels (Reis door de Minahasa en den Molukschen Archipel..., 1856,<br />

I:159) says incorrectly that Maitara is one thousand meters high, that it is uninhabited and that<br />

there remains some doubt as to which sultanate it belongs. Why he says that it is volcanic is not<br />

quite clear; Bickmore (1873, II:19) also shares that opinion. Many writers follow the English<br />

spelling, “Mitara.”<br />

2 [p. 68, n. 2] The rareness of coconut palms on Tidore is attributed by some to a spell cast by<br />

Sultan Ahmadul Mansur but actually it is due to the unsuitability of the soil. This is also the<br />

problem in Sawu and Jailolo on Halmahera, that the coconut palms never reach full maturity and<br />

therefore are not worth the trouble of planting. Only in the higher areas of Tidore does one find the<br />

arenga palm, which is tapped for domestic consumption, although most sagwire comes from<br />

Halmahera.<br />

3 [p. 68, n. 3] In Insulinde (1870-1871, II:30), Wallace is confused about the location of the craggy<br />

volcanic hills; they are not to the south but to the north of the peak.<br />

4 [p. 68, n. 4] In the Gazetteer (Aardrijkskundig, 1869, III:956), the statement that the crater<br />

emits smoke from time to time is completely incorrect.<br />

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