Ternate - Smithsonian Institution Libraries

TERNATE 32 TOPOGRAPHY AND TRAVEL DESCRIPTIONS
life, they have settled temporarily in the mountains. They can always find buyers along the
coast for the sago which they prepare, sometimes taking it to the capital themselves. 19
Bamboo stakes filled with resin have been placed in the ground in a few rows and
lighted. The Alfurus perform, armed with shield and lance and dancing the cakalele (war
dance) in imitated fury around the smoking flames to the tifah. Their dance consists of
tremendous leaps taken all around an imaginary head, while they utter shouts of joy over a
successful head-hunting trip. Their excitement increases continually, encouraged by the
people who have turned up in large numbers, many of whom may well have had more than
one drink of sagwire (palm wine). Thus quiet Sidangoli witnesses a festive display.
Others before me have commented on the cowardice of the head-hunter, who sets
upon his victim insidiously, administering the death-blow without warning; but the sham
performance has something attractive about it and gives the impression of bravery and
courage. The hefty physique of the warriors is also impressive, although most of them, with
their Semitic noses and bangs, have slightly feminine features. 20 [p. 50]
The next day we decide to row between the large number of small islands which
extend near the coast in a southern and southeastern direction as far as the creek Jiko
Tofu. The natives call these islands gurah ma-Ngofa [as corrected in Errata —Trans.], the
Ternatese word for “island” which literally means “part (child) of a garden or land.”
Actually, these islands are accumulations of mud and coral which appear only at low tide.
They are completely overgrown with Rhizophores and Sonneratia species (Ternatese, lolaro
and posi-posi, respectively), the roots of which become exposed at low tide in their countless
furcations. Only one island, Ngaai ma-Dodera, has a small beach where a few Bajorese
from the Kayoa Islands have temporarily settled. 21 The main occupation of these Bajorese
19 [p. 49, n. 1] Wallace restricts the dwelling place of the Alfurus to the east coast and the interior
(1870-1871, II:19) but this is due to his ignorance of the real situation. He is also confused by the
fact that Moslems are to be found in all the coastal villages.
20 [p. 49, n. 2] Much has already been written about the meaning of the word Alfuru, van
Musschenbroek’s article (TAG) being the most recent contribution. Leaving aside his other, rather
dubious arguments, van Musschenbroek is right in saying that from a native point of view the tribes
are differentiated mainly by their religion. That the Mohammedans feel superior to the Alfurus is
understandable. They are, in fact, at a higher level of civilization since they have a complete form of
religion and lead a more home-centered life, and also because they live in well-regulated kampongs,
dress properly, and are more particular in their choice of food.
21 [p. 50, n. 1] Campen (Tijdschr. Batav. Gen., 28:274) does not list all of the islands; moreover,
some of the names he gives are wrong. A corrected list is given below:
Toduku Gamia Malu Ici
Bololo Mare-Mare Siokona
Ngaai ma-Dodera
[as corrected in
Errata —Trans.]
Ake Jailolo Matanana
Gumi Wele-wele Bia ma-Ahi Dowongi Rotu
Tamo Jojoho lemo Mano ma-Dehe
Kuru Todore Gura Busa Kokonora
Mardula Jiko Lamo Bakari Sosolo
SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION LIBRARIES DIGITAL EDITION