Ternate - Smithsonian Institution Libraries

TERNATE 28 TOPOGRAPHY AND TRAVEL DESCRIPTIONS
The Sultan and princes are in civilian clothes, tieless and in black coats. Their heads
are covered with the pointed white head shawl which only members of the royal family are
allowed to wear. The bobatos (chiefs) wear black dress coats of western cut over white
shirts and trousers. The junior staff members wear long kebayas. All have their heads
covered with a black cotton turban, the normal mark of honor for distinguished guests. 9
Normally the ships approach Halmahera by first following the beach of Ternate and
then turning toward Halmahera just beyond Dufa-Dufa; this time, however, we make
directly for Sidangoli, a journey of three hours. [p. 43] The proa docks at the rough-hewn
but strongly built jetty. While the musicians, who have arrived before us, play fanfares, we
proceed with solemnity and dignity through an avenue of coconut palms to the house of the
Sultan.
The building is fairly large, and has all the characteristics of a rural house, in the
absence of many other facilities. It is made completely of gaba-gaba with a roof of katu and
is comprised of a front and back verandah and four rooms. In all, it is spacious enough for a
short stay. The floor seems to have disappeared a long time ago and for this festive
occasion the sandy soil has been thoroughly cleaned. Most of our household effects were
delivered the previous day by the Sultan’s schooner, and with the little bit of luggage that
we brought along with us everyone in the group soon feels at home.
These discussions with the Sultan are valuable, especially when a long acquaintance
has deepened the mutual trust. He speaks fluent Malay 10 and knows everything that has
ever happened at Ternate. Since he is also well-informed about the small bickerings that
make life so difficult among the Europeans, he tends to keep slightly aloof and seldom gives
parties. He may also be deterred from contact with many people by a concern that he might
witness certain excesses in behavior—a situation not unusual in former days. He is always
prepared to act immediately to help anyone with a request. Because of his title as ruling
Sultan, his self-respect depends on his commitment to upholding his prestige before the
people. 11 He is a [p. 44] strict Moslem and observes his religious duties faithfully; so much
9 [p. 42, n. 2] It is claimed in the Dutch Indies that the act of tying anything around the neck is in
contravention of Koranic precepts, and therefore Mohammedan headmen never wear a tie when they
dress in European clothes. The assurances of experts that neither the Koran nor [Moslem] Tradition
have this prohibition have not been able to change this custom, which may have been adopted from
the Turks.
The male lineal descendants of the Sultan bear the title of “prince” (Ternatese, kaicil); the
female descendants that of boki. The latter word is of native origin and is found already in
Valentijn; the former dates from the time of the earliest known chiefs. Bobato is a collective name
for chiefs of a lesser rank, usually chiefs of kampongs.
10 [p. 43, n. 1] Van der Crab’s claim (1862, p. 310) that a corrupted form of Malay is spoken at
court in Ternate is completely inexplicable.
11 [p. 43, n. 2] It appears from Drake’s record of travel (see Crawfurd, 1820, II:406) that this
friendly disposition dates from the first contact with strangers. Besides the manner in which he was
received by the Sultan of Ternate, that traveler reports, among other things: “The hospitality of the
people of the Moluccas, towards every class of strangers, was remarkable. All the European nations
were received by them with a courtesy and good faith which does honour to their character; and the
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