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cover - Blue Liguria - Sagep

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with him all the other profaners.<br />

The treasures found by the lucky<br />

excavation now make up the<br />

leading exhibition in the astounding<br />

Egyptian Museum of Cairo, which it<br />

appears has only been subjected to<br />

modest damage during the course<br />

of the recent disorders. Carnarvon,<br />

after his years spent in Egypt,<br />

brought many artifacts to England,<br />

the great part of which were sold to<br />

the Metropolitan Museum in New<br />

York to pay inheritance taxes.<br />

Many objects of minor interest<br />

ended up in a closet in High Clere<br />

Castle, the Carnarvon residence near<br />

Newbury, to the southwest of<br />

London, to be then redis<strong>cover</strong>ed by<br />

his descendents in 1987. Today they<br />

are exhibited in a small museum<br />

which shows Carnarvon’s campaigns<br />

and his adventurous life as a<br />

photographer, raiser of horses, fan<br />

(and victim) of racing cars.<br />

And what has Portofino to do with<br />

this story? Perched on the<br />

promontory of the Italian Riviera,<br />

well known to chroniclers, is Villa<br />

Altachiara, the <strong>Liguria</strong>n translation<br />

of High Clere, as per the wishes of<br />

the fourth Count of Carnarvon,<br />

Henry Herbert (1831-1890). He<br />

fathered the future archeologist<br />

with his first wife, Evelyn. Upon her<br />

death, he married, in 1878, a young<br />

cousin, Elsie Howard. It was during<br />

their honeymoon in the first<br />

months of 1879 that the couple<br />

dis<strong>cover</strong>ed Portofino.<br />

“Elsie was enchanted. As a result<br />

Carnarvon bought her a great tract<br />

of land on the peninsula. Together<br />

they designed a house on top of the<br />

hill, facing in part on the tiny<br />

harbor, and on the other side, facing<br />

the sea, all built in Portland stone.”<br />

This citation comes from the<br />

biography written by Margaret<br />

Fitzherbert, The Man Who Was<br />

Greenmantle (1983), dedicated to<br />

the son of Carnarvon and Elsie,<br />

Aubrey Herbert (1880-1923), an<br />

indefatigable traveler and polyglot,<br />

who died prematurely in the same<br />

year as his Egyptologist half-<br />

nota alle cronache, la Villa Altachiara,<br />

traduzion ligure di High<br />

Clere. Questa fu voluta dal quarto<br />

Conte di Carnarvon, Henry Herbert<br />

(1831-1890), che ebbe il futuro archeologo<br />

dalla prima moglie Evelyn.<br />

Morta questa, sposò nel 1878<br />

una cugina molto più giovane, Elsie<br />

Howard. Fu durante la luna di<br />

miele nei primi mesi del 1879 che<br />

gli sposi scoprirono Portofino.<br />

“Elsie ne fu incantata, sicché Carnarvon<br />

le comprò un grande tratto<br />

della penisola. Insieme progettarono<br />

una casa in cima alla collina, affacciata<br />

da una parte sul porticciolo,<br />

dall’altra sul mare. Fu costruita<br />

di pietra di Portland”.<br />

Cito dalla biografia di Margaret<br />

Fitzherbert, The Man Who Was<br />

Greenmantle (1983), dedicata al fi-<br />

George Herbert (1866-1923), quinto<br />

Conte di Carnarvon<br />

George Herbert (1866-1923), fifth<br />

Count of Carnarvon<br />

brother. Aubrey was quite a<br />

personality. A friend and accomplice<br />

of Lawrence of Arabia, he was<br />

involved in many complex<br />

diplomatic plots. But he was also a<br />

very eye-catching, half-blind,<br />

unpredictable, eccentric, disorderly<br />

figure to whom the throne of<br />

Albania was offered two times. He<br />

married an Anglo-Irish heiress,<br />

Mary, who gave him three<br />

daughters and a son, Auberon<br />

(1922-1974), who was as<br />

extravagant and eccentric as his<br />

father, though less influential in the<br />

political sphere. A huge man with a<br />

cordial grin and flat feet, he<br />

continued to dominate the<br />

landscape of Portofino, with his<br />

well-loved mother, until the<br />

seventies. The Villa Altachiara, which<br />

the fourth Count built for his wife,<br />

was left to her on his death. She in<br />

turn passed it on to the great<br />

adventurers, Aubrey and Auberon,<br />

son and grandson. To Auberon was<br />

given the task of selling it. Built<br />

around 1880, it is probable that the<br />

fifth Count, the Egyptologist, spent<br />

some holiday periods here with his<br />

half-brother, Aubrey. But the story<br />

of Altachiara is linked to the second<br />

family of the fourth Count, the<br />

Herberts, who did not inherit the<br />

title, of which the jovial storyteller,<br />

Auberon was the last male heir.<br />

A trip to High Clere instead, lets<br />

you meet the actual eight Count of<br />

Carnarvon and his smiling, dogloving<br />

wife, and to visit their<br />

imposing estate with its little<br />

Egyptian museum. In the<br />

meantime, just recently, the news<br />

has arrived that Italian anatomopathologists<br />

have found that the<br />

mummy of Tutankhamen (still<br />

conserved in the Valley of the<br />

Kings) shows that he was a cripple,<br />

who suffered from malaria, and<br />

had a congenital malformation of<br />

his palate. All the same, emotions<br />

still overwhelm, when one gazes<br />

upon his gold mask which<br />

contemplates us, intact and serene,<br />

from far off 1325 B.C.<br />

storie<br />

blue<br />

glio di Carnarvon ed Elsie, Aubrey<br />

Herbert (1880-1923), viaggiatore<br />

instancabile e poliglotta, che morì<br />

prematuramente nello stesso anno<br />

del fratellastro egittologo.<br />

Aubrey fu un personaggio di spicco,<br />

amico e complice di Lawrence d’Arabia,<br />

coinvolto in complesse trame diplomatiche.<br />

Ma era anche un uomo<br />

pittoresco, semicieco, imprevedibile,<br />

eccentrico, disordinato, cui fu offerto<br />

due volte il trono di Albania. Sposò<br />

un’ereditiera angloirlandese, Mary,<br />

che gli diede tre figlie e il maschio<br />

Auberon (1922-1974), stravagante<br />

ed eccentrico come il padre anche se<br />

meno influente sullo scacchiere politico.<br />

Un omone con un ghigno cordiale<br />

e piedi piatti che continuò a<br />

dominare il paesaggio di Portofino,<br />

con l’amatissima madre, fino agli<br />

anni ’70.<br />

La Villa Altachiara, voluta dal quarto<br />

Conte per la moglie, rimase in<br />

eredità a questa, e da lei passò agli<br />

avventurieri Aubrey e Auberon, figlio<br />

e nipote. Toccò ad Auberon<br />

venderla. Fu costruita intorno al<br />

1880, ed è probabile che il quinto<br />

Duca, l’egittologo, vi abbia trascorso<br />

periodi di vacanza accanto al<br />

fratellastro Aubrey. Ma la storia<br />

dell’Altachiara è legata alla seconda<br />

famiglia del quarto Conte, gli<br />

Herbert che non ereditarono il titolo,<br />

di cui il gioviale affabulatore<br />

Auberon fu l’ultimo erede maschio.<br />

Un viaggio a Highclere permetterà<br />

invece di conoscere l’attuale ottavo<br />

Conte di Carnarvon e la sorridente<br />

moglie cinofila e di visitare<br />

la loro imponente residenza, col<br />

piccolo museo egizio.<br />

Intanto è di questi giorni la notizia<br />

che esperti anatomopatologi italiani<br />

e non hanno appurato dalla<br />

mummia (tuttora conservata nella<br />

Valle dei Re) che Tutankhamen era<br />

sciancato, soffriva di malaria e<br />

aveva una malformazione congenita<br />

al palato. Il che nulla toglie all’emozione<br />

che proviamo davanti<br />

alla sua maschera aurea, che ci<br />

contempla intatta e serena dal lontano<br />

1325 a.C.<br />

89

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