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nied. The things that can get you denied include living in the<br />

"southern" part of Korea or being a journalist. It's interesting<br />

to note that there is no record of me ever going to the DPRK<br />

in my American passport; they provided their own booklet.<br />

things that stood out<br />

I figured our guides would be the elites of Pyongyang and<br />

basically have been trained on how to deal with "Westerners."<br />

I also thought this means they would essentially know<br />

everything that we knew to better "accommodate" our needs.<br />

I assumed that they knew about the opinions we held and had<br />

access to the same information outlets.<br />

I was very wrong. I was probably right that they in fact are<br />

elites in Pyongyang, and they have the best grasp of the english<br />

language. However, they only receive news once a week.<br />

The week I was there, they heard about the US Imperialists in<br />

Libya (they had no idea Gaddafi was dead) and that a bunch<br />

of wild animals got loose and were all shot. It was pretty obvious<br />

that although we had BBC in our rooms, not even our<br />

guides had access to this channel. I'm not exactly sure how<br />

they controlled this from internal hotel staff. During my trip,<br />

I was a firm believer the more comfortable our guides felt<br />

with us, the better our trip would be. We *only* asked vanilla<br />

questions, always asked permission before taking photos, etc.<br />

It was pretty easy to get answers without having to ask our<br />

own questions. I remember when my guide asked me, "Have<br />

you ever had pizza before?"<br />

Part of the custom of visiting the DPRK is bringing a gift<br />

for your guides from your home country. I thought it would be<br />

really cool to bring my guide an iPod shuffle with music that<br />

represented America. I debated what I should put on it (What<br />

would be the most valuable type of music to a DPRK guide<br />

in Pyongyang?) and ended up with the top 100 Billboard hits.<br />

Turns out my guide had never heard any other type of music<br />

besides Korean and a little music from some of the American<br />

movies she saw. She didn't know the titles of what she has<br />

seen, but one of them was about a "girl who would sing and<br />

dance on top of the bar." (Coyote Ugly?)<br />

I spent a good part of the three-hour drive to the network<br />

DMZs explaining some of the genres like country, rap, and<br />

63

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