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ock that were included in her mix. We shared earbuds as I<br />

blew her mind with the latest eminem and Lady Gaga hits of<br />

2010. I was pretty sad when she asked me to turn the volume<br />

down on multiple occasions.<br />

After the first day, our guides were asking us most of the<br />

questions. This was actually the most stressful part of the trip.<br />

Some of the questions were extremely direct and impossible<br />

to answer honestly. "Do you have the gays in the US?" "Why<br />

would Gadafi's people try to kill him?" "How many countries<br />

have you been to?" We immediately tried to dodge these questions<br />

and ask something about a statue we were looking at<br />

or an aspect of Juche idea. I feel guilty for doing this because<br />

they started catching on to our diversions, and I could sense<br />

their disappointment that we weren't being very open.<br />

I think one of the biggest mistakes I made was going to<br />

sleep instead of accepting an invite to go bowling with my<br />

guide and their friends at the hotel 'off the clock.' It was probably<br />

one of the best opportunities I had to honestly interact<br />

with my guides after a few drinks. We were so tired after the<br />

DMZ that we crashed hard as soon as we got back to the<br />

hotel.<br />

The only car on the street was our own. Driving outside of<br />

Pyongyang requires constant checkpoints. There are military<br />

soldiers just standing along the road the entire way to our trip<br />

to Kaesong near the DMZ.<br />

they really hate the u.s.<br />

By and large one of the biggest themes in DPRK is the universal<br />

hatred for the United States. on billboards, on monuments,<br />

eVeRYWHeRe. This is not a hyperbole. Watching<br />

the informational video on the USS Pueblo (the US spy ship)<br />

ended with " . . . and that's why we must annihilate the US Imperialists."<br />

Awwwwkward.<br />

The fact that we were Americans visiting the DPRK on<br />

friendly terms made us "rebels," and we were the "crazy ones"<br />

who came on a fact-finding mission to seek the truth about<br />

north Korea. All of the Koreans we interacted with (not once<br />

did I interact with a civilian) seemed to really appreciate this<br />

fact and were thrilled to teach us about the DPRK.<br />

64

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