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The omens are not good. Every country in the Middle East seems to
be becoming more Islamic and more sectarian. Syrian Christians have
seen since 2003 how an outcome of the invasion of Iraq was the
destruction of Christian communities in Iraq that had survived for almost
2,000 years. If the opposition National Coalition, recognised by 130
countries as the legitimate government of Syria, does ultimately take
power then its most effective fighting force will be Jadhat al-Nusra, with
an ideology similar to al-Qa'ida. It is prospects like this that fill Syrian
Christians with alarm.
Maloula is a good place to talk about these fears. It is an hour's drive
from Damascus, some 20 miles from Lebanon, and occupies a spectacular
site in a cleft in the mountains. Its rocky defiles have always been a place
of refuge. It was here that St Tikla, fleeing imperial soldiery, took refuge
in a cave high up in the cliffs.
Maloula's isolation helped preserve its Christianity and also gave it
the distinction of being the only place where Western Aramaic, the
language of Jesus, is still spoken by Christians.
There is a mood of uncertainty about the future. So far there have
been four kidnappings that the Syrian army post just beyond the entrance
to the town has not been able to do much to prevent. Religious tourism has
disappeared. "I used to sell guide books and souvenirs," says Samir Shakti,
gesturing towards his small shop, "but now I sell fruit and vegetables".
Another sign of edginess is the bursts of anger against foreigners, in
the present case myself, as a symbol of European powers accused of
arming Islamic fundamentalists. Even the Mother Superior of the Convent,
Pelagia Sayaf, demanded to know why the Europeans were aiding "people
who kill with the knife". She said many people were leaving the town
(though this was denied by some others in Maloula).
Mother Superior Pelagia looked strained. She has been at her post for
23 years, ruling over 14 nuns and 33 orphans from Christian families all
over the Middle East. The orphans wear a red uniform and tartan caps,
giving them a surprisingly Scottish appearance. "It is going to be a sad
Christmas in Maloula," the Mother Superior said. "Sanctions are
punishing the people, not the government."