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many <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se little farms have <strong>the</strong> family outhouse just feed directly into<br />

<strong>the</strong> ponds."<br />

If that makes you less interested in ordering <strong>the</strong> tilapia, <strong>the</strong>n you<br />

surely don’t want any Vietnamese “catfish” ei<strong>the</strong>r. U.S. aquaculture<br />

produces channel catfish, but <strong>the</strong>se days, American producers compete<br />

with a flood <strong>of</strong> cheap Vietnamese fish that are marketed as catfish. Dr.<br />

Carole Engle, chair and director <strong>of</strong> aquaculture and fisheries at <strong>the</strong><br />

University <strong>of</strong> Arkansas at Pine Bluff, says <strong>the</strong>se Vietnamese catfish are<br />

“not only a different species, it's a different genus and a different family.<br />

We call it pangasius.”<br />

To understand pangasius farming in Vietnam, one must first know a<br />

little bit about life in <strong>the</strong> Mekong Delta. Engle explains, “What's striking<br />

when you first get <strong>the</strong>re is that <strong>the</strong>re's more water than <strong>the</strong>re is land in <strong>the</strong><br />

Mekong Delta region. There are <strong>the</strong>se large rivers coming through <strong>the</strong><br />

Mekong Delta… These waters are everything. A lot <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> transportation is<br />

on <strong>the</strong> water, and a lot <strong>of</strong> people live on <strong>the</strong> water, on houseboats. It's also<br />

a disposal system. People live on <strong>the</strong>se rivers and <strong>the</strong>ir restrooms are right<br />

on <strong>the</strong>se boats and <strong>the</strong>y are discharging right on <strong>the</strong> rivers. And all <strong>the</strong><br />

human waste, and all <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> waste from cities… it's all going into <strong>the</strong> river<br />

and <strong>the</strong> river is <strong>the</strong> source <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> water.”<br />

That water is where <strong>the</strong> fish are raised. “A lot <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> fish are raised in<br />

cages directly in rivers,” says Engle, but “more and more <strong>the</strong> pangasius are<br />

raised in what <strong>the</strong> Vietnamese call ponds.” But <strong>the</strong> ponds are nothing like<br />

U.S. aquaculture ponds that are closed systems using clean water. The<br />

Vietnamese ponds are regularly flushed with polluted river water.<br />

"Upstream a factory or a houseboat might have discharged something into<br />

it, and all that human waste is flowing through <strong>the</strong>se ponds because <strong>the</strong>y<br />

are flushing it through a few times a day," Engle explains.<br />

Ano<strong>the</strong>r concern with imported farm-raised seafood is <strong>the</strong> use <strong>of</strong><br />

drugs and pesticides that are banned in <strong>the</strong> United States. A few that show<br />

up frequently include <strong>the</strong> drugs chloramphenicol and nitr<strong>of</strong>urans, and <strong>the</strong><br />

fungicide malachite green. Each <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se is banned in <strong>the</strong> United States for<br />

a good reason. Chloramphenicol can cause aplastic anemia, a condition in<br />

which <strong>the</strong> bone marrow does not produce enough new blood cells, in

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