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Child-and-adult-labour-in-the-export-oriented-garment-and-gem-polishing-industry-of-India

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The <strong>gem</strong> polish<strong>in</strong>g <strong>export</strong> <strong>in</strong>dustry <strong>of</strong> <strong>India</strong>: Jaipur <strong>and</strong> Trichy<br />

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million while this was US$ 4139.26 million dur<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> previous f<strong>in</strong>ancial year 116 . The figure <strong>of</strong><br />

1994-95 is almost one fifth <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> total <strong>export</strong> <strong>of</strong> US$ 25 billion by <strong>India</strong>. Coloured <strong>gem</strong> stones<br />

contributed US$ 141.46 million (3%) to <strong>the</strong> total <strong>gem</strong> <strong>and</strong> jewellery <strong>export</strong>s <strong>in</strong> 1994-95. The<br />

<strong>export</strong> <strong>of</strong> syn<strong>the</strong>tic <strong>gem</strong> stones from <strong>India</strong> is negligible with US$ 0.30 million <strong>in</strong> 1994-95.<br />

Although only a three per cent share <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> total <strong>export</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>gem</strong> <strong>and</strong> jewellery consists <strong>of</strong> coloured<br />

<strong>gem</strong> stones, <strong>the</strong> <strong>export</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se stones has made, after non-gold jewellery, <strong>the</strong> highest <strong>in</strong>crease <strong>in</strong><br />

value (+ 42%) <strong>in</strong> 1994-95 as compared to 1993-94. It is a fast grow<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong>dustry. Due to high earn<strong>in</strong>gs<br />

from sell<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> polished coloured <strong>gem</strong> stones <strong>and</strong> syn<strong>the</strong>tic stones <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> (<strong>in</strong>ter)national<br />

markets, <strong>the</strong> <strong>in</strong>dustry is a lucrative bus<strong>in</strong>ess.<br />

The USA is <strong>the</strong> s<strong>in</strong>gle largest importer <strong>of</strong> <strong>gem</strong>s <strong>and</strong> jewellery from <strong>India</strong> (29.7 % <strong>of</strong> total <strong>gem</strong>s<br />

<strong>and</strong> jewellery <strong>export</strong>s <strong>in</strong> 1994-95), as can be seen <strong>in</strong> table 4. Hongkong, Belgium <strong>and</strong> Japan are<br />

<strong>the</strong> second, third <strong>and</strong> fourth largest importers <strong>of</strong> <strong>India</strong>n <strong>gem</strong> stones. O<strong>the</strong>r major import<strong>in</strong>g countries<br />

are UK, Italy, Germany, Switzerl<strong>and</strong>, Thail<strong>and</strong>, U.A.R. <strong>and</strong> Israel, <strong>and</strong> S<strong>in</strong>gapore. Total<br />

import <strong>of</strong> 'precious <strong>and</strong> semi-precious stones o<strong>the</strong>r than diamonds' <strong>in</strong>to <strong>the</strong> European Community<br />

<strong>in</strong> 1989 amounted to US$ 600 million 117 . <strong>India</strong>'s share <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> imports <strong>of</strong> worked ruby, sapphire<br />

<strong>and</strong> emeralds by <strong>the</strong> EC <strong>in</strong> 1989, was 10% (US$ 60 million), <strong>of</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r imported worked precious<br />

<strong>and</strong> semi-precious stones by <strong>the</strong> EC, it was 2% (US$ 12 million), <strong>and</strong> <strong>of</strong> imported articles made<br />

<strong>of</strong> precious <strong>and</strong> semi-precious stones also by <strong>the</strong> EC, <strong>India</strong>'s share was ano<strong>the</strong>r 2%. The Ne<strong>the</strong>rl<strong>and</strong>s<br />

imported from <strong>India</strong> <strong>in</strong> 1988, necklaces, bracelets <strong>and</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r articles wholly made <strong>of</strong><br />

precious <strong>and</strong> semi-precious stones, <strong>and</strong> (semi-)precious stones o<strong>the</strong>r than diamonds, ruby,<br />

sapphire <strong>and</strong> emerald at a total value <strong>of</strong> Dfl 332,000. In 1990 this amount was Dfl 613,000. In<br />

1990 <strong>the</strong> Ne<strong>the</strong>rl<strong>and</strong>s also started to import syn<strong>the</strong>tic <strong>gem</strong> stones from <strong>India</strong> at <strong>the</strong> value <strong>of</strong> Dfl<br />

4,000 118 , <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong> 1994 at <strong>the</strong> value <strong>of</strong> Dfl 17,000 119 . The Dutch market is grow<strong>in</strong>g, especially for<br />

<strong>the</strong> precious <strong>and</strong> semi-precious <strong>gem</strong> stones.<br />

It is said that <strong>India</strong> can compete <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational market, because <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> availability <strong>of</strong> cheap<br />

<strong>labour</strong> 120 . The ma<strong>in</strong> competitors are Switzerl<strong>and</strong>, Israel <strong>and</strong> Hong Kong but <strong>the</strong> <strong>labour</strong> costs are<br />

much higher <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong>se countries.<br />

Among <strong>the</strong> cheap <strong>labour</strong>ers are thous<strong>and</strong>s <strong>of</strong> work<strong>in</strong>g children under 14 years <strong>of</strong> age 121 . In Jaipur,<br />

Rajasthan, where 95% <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>export</strong>ed coloured <strong>gem</strong> stones <strong>in</strong> <strong>India</strong> are cut, shaped <strong>and</strong> polished,<br />

89<br />

116 <strong>Child</strong>'s Right Bullet<strong>in</strong>, March-April 1995; <strong>and</strong>, Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council, 29th Annual Report, 1995.<br />

117 Centre for <strong>the</strong> Promotion <strong>of</strong> Imports from develop<strong>in</strong>g countries (CBI), 1991. 'Precious <strong>and</strong> semi-precious stones. A market survey <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> Ne<strong>the</strong>rl<strong>and</strong>s <strong>and</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r major markets <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> European Community'.<br />

118 CBI, 1991, ibid. In 1990, syn<strong>the</strong>tic <strong>gem</strong> stones were imported under code nr. HS 7104 90: 'Worked syn<strong>the</strong>tic or reconstructed precious<br />

<strong>and</strong> semi-precious stones'.<br />

119 Centraal Bureau voor de Statistiek, Heerlen, 1996. In 1994, syn<strong>the</strong>tic <strong>gem</strong> stones were imported under code nr. HS 7104 20: 'Syn<strong>the</strong>tic<br />

or reconstructed precious or semi-precious, unworked or simply sawn or roughly shaped stones'.<br />

120 Asian F<strong>in</strong>ance, 15 March, 1988; Neera Burra, January 23, 1988 (II), ibid. p. 136.<br />

121 The diamond polish<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong>dustry does not fall with<strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> scope <strong>of</strong> this research. Diamonds are ma<strong>in</strong>ly cut <strong>and</strong> polished <strong>in</strong> Bombay <strong>and</strong><br />

Surat <strong>and</strong> surrounded villages. In this <strong>in</strong>dustry it is estimated that 15,000 out <strong>of</strong> 100,000 artisans are child <strong>labour</strong>ers. Source: Neera Burra,<br />

Born to Work, <strong>Child</strong> Labour <strong>in</strong> <strong>India</strong>, 1995.

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