Child-and-adult-labour-in-the-export-oriented-garment-and-gem-polishing-industry-of-India

Chapter 6
Child and adult labour in the gem polishing export industry of
Jaipur
6.1 Introduction
Ninety five per cent of all coloured gemstones processed in India is cut, shaped, polished and
carved in Jaipur, Rajasthan. The remaining five per cent are produced in Cambay (Gujarat) (for
agate), Bombay, Hyderabad, Karwar, Trichy, Coimbatore, Nellore, Cuttack and Calcutta. The city
of Bombay and Surat are famous for the cutting, shaping and polishing of diamonds. In 1994-95,
Jaipur alone contributed US$ 115.01 million to the total export of coloured gem stones of US$
141.46 million in that year 134 . The gem polishing industry in Jaipur is recognized as one of
Rajasthan's most important industries.
The gem polishing industry of Jaipur started in 1727, when the city was built. The Maharaja Jai
Singh, the founder of the city, gave jewellers from Delhi, Agra and Benares the royal patronage to
start the gem polishing industry in Jaipur in that year. At that time, gems and gem-studded silver
and gold ornaments and jewellery were mainly manufactured for the royal families. Names like
'Johari Bazar' or 'market of jewellers' given to the main market and 'Manak Chowk' or 'Ruby
Square' the name given to the main city square of Jaipur, are reminders of that time. Another
name like the 'Ghat Gate' or 'Rough shaped gem stone Gate', which is the name given to one of
the main gates in the wall around the city, also has its origin in that time.
This industry is almost entirely in the informal sector. Next to many little verandas and newly
established small workshops in the periphery of the city, many workshops are still located in the
homes of the master craftsmen. The gem polishing industry of Jaipur is labour intensive due to
the special features of most of the raw coloured gem stones. For example, the emerald, which is
mainly processed in Jaipur, is a relatively soft stone which makes the use of full automation quite
difficult. The stone will break too easily and therefore is worked by hand. This is also the case
with many other precious and semi-precious gem stones. The tools which are used in Jaipur have
not changed significantly over the last two centuries.
Since the past decade the industry witnessed a tremendous growth due to an increased
international demand for gem stones. The New Economic Policy of 1991 of the former Central
Government increased this growth by giving incentives in the form of tax exemptions and other
supporting measures to increase the production for export. Due to this expansion, the industry
attracts a sizable number of full- and part-time workers. Almost every household in some parts of
the city have at least one or two members who are employed in the industry. Rough estimates
show that the industry employs around 200,000 persons. The Gurupudaswamy Committee Report
of 1979 (GOI 1981:9) came to the conclusion that there were at least 10,000 children working in
the industry. This number, however, refers to the year 1979. Up to today, the estimates of the
number of child labourers in the industry vary, but show an increase, as can be seen from table 5
of this report. The increase, which is derived from different estimates, indicates that today there
should be at least the same - or even a higher - influx of child labour into the gem polishing
134 Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council, '29th Annual Report', 1995, p. 6.