Child-and-adult-labour-in-the-export-oriented-garment-and-gem-polishing-industry-of-India

Chapter 5
Adult labour in the garment export industry of Bangalore
5.1 Introduction
Buyers of garments travel to Bombay, Madras and Delhi where the garment manufacturers are
thriving. Recently, for this purpose, buyers also visit Bangalore, which is the capital of the state of
Karnataka. The city has become a new destination for leading garment manufacturing and export
houses. Today, Bangalore is called 'the Mecca of India's garment industry' 98 , but it started long
before the boom in 1920 with manufacturing garments for the local and domestic markets.
'In 1994, Bangalore exported garments worth Rs 700 crores. Though Bangalore's share of India's
total export of garments is only 6,21 per cent, it is the home of India's top garment manufacturers
and exporters, like Gokaldas Exports which earned US$ 24.55 million in 1993 due to its garment
exports' 99 . Today, Bangalore has become an active player in the process of globalization, mainly
manufacturing for export. Apart from exporting garments, manufacturers from Bangalore also
have a flourishing chain of domestic showrooms.
In an article 100 on Bangalore's garment industry, it is stated that Bangalore is popular among garment
manufacturers due to the following five factors. Firstly, real estate is still reasonably priced.
In the article a real estate agent says 'in Bangalore, the price per acre of land is around a tenth of
the amount in Delhi and perhaps a fortieth of the amount in Bombay'. Secondly, the climate and
cosmopolitan lifestyle have made Bangalore more popular than Madras, which is actually a better
option as a port city. Thirdly, Bangalore is close to other important textile cities like Tirupur for
hosiery fabrics and garments, but also Karur for the production of yarn, Coimbatore and Salem
etc., which are all together inexpensive suppliers of raw materials. Fourthly, there is an inland
container depot for transport of cargo to Madras, Bombay or Delhi, and a freighter service by air.
Seventy per cent of the freight is composed of garments from Bangalore. An international airport
is planned to establish a direct link with foreign buyers. And fifthly, the abundance of a cheap
female labour force 101 . In the article it is said 'that wages which are paid to women are lower than
in the north and are around Rs 1500 per month'.
Bangalore's 'Mecca', however, does not reflect the working conditions and standards of the
workers, especially the women labourers. In an article 102 in an Indian news paper, a journalist explains
the situation of exploited women in the garment industry as follows: 'Salaries are meagre
(sometimes as low as Rs 450 per month) and the working hours are long. Working overtime is a
must almost every day. Export orders have to be fulfilled and no employee can leave without
putting in extra hours'. Leela, a woman who works in a garment unit and who is quoted in the
98 Sunday, January 8, 1995. 'Fashion City, Why is Bangalore the Mecca of India's garment export industry?'.
99 Sunday, January 8, 1995. Ibid., op. cit.
100 Sunday, January 8, 1995. Ibid.
101 Other factors which were mentioned by manufacturers in Bangalore, are: financial support to the garment industry by the Government
of Karnataka and the availability of a better infrastructure as compared with other areas, in terms of land, water, electricity and transport,
which all are available at a lower price in Bangalore.
102 Deccan Herald, March 11, 1995. 'Sewn up by dire need'.