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54<br />
<strong>Child</strong> <strong>and</strong> <strong>adult</strong> <strong>labour</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>garment</strong> <strong>export</strong> <strong>in</strong>dustry <strong>of</strong> Tirupur<br />
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revealed <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong> European retailers, cha<strong>in</strong>-stores <strong>and</strong> buy<strong>in</strong>g houses which buy <strong>the</strong>ir <strong>garment</strong>s<br />
from <strong>the</strong> respective manufactur<strong>in</strong>g <strong>garment</strong> companies <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> different cases. Not all <strong>the</strong> above<br />
mentioned foreign retailers, cha<strong>in</strong>-stores <strong>and</strong>/or buy<strong>in</strong>g houses are mentioned <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> cases hereafter<br />
because <strong>the</strong> cases <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir supply<strong>in</strong>g <strong>garment</strong> manufactur<strong>in</strong>g companies <strong>in</strong> Tirupur are not<br />
<strong>in</strong>cluded <strong>in</strong> this report. In <strong>the</strong>se units <strong>the</strong> same bad <strong>labour</strong> conditions were found, like <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r<br />
manufactur<strong>in</strong>g units.<br />
Case I<br />
This manufactur<strong>in</strong>g unit is a supplier to an <strong>export</strong>er <strong>in</strong> Tirupur <strong>and</strong> is located <strong>in</strong> KPN Colony, 1-2<br />
km from <strong>the</strong> centre <strong>of</strong> Tirupur. KPN Colony has an open dra<strong>in</strong>age <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong> streets are very dirty,<br />
but <strong>the</strong> units which I have seen <strong>in</strong> this area are spacious, sufficiently lit <strong>and</strong> freshly pa<strong>in</strong>ted, but<br />
without ventilation.<br />
In this unit ma<strong>in</strong>ly T-shirts are produced which are <strong>export</strong>ed to <strong>the</strong> Ne<strong>the</strong>rl<strong>and</strong>s, Italy, <strong>the</strong><br />
Sc<strong>and</strong><strong>in</strong>avian countries, <strong>the</strong> United K<strong>in</strong>gdom, Germany, France <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong> United States <strong>of</strong><br />
America.<br />
At <strong>the</strong> moment <strong>of</strong> my visit, <strong>the</strong> unit had a slack time <strong>and</strong> less workers than usual were hired by<br />
<strong>the</strong> unit owner. The unit owner was wait<strong>in</strong>g for new orders. Orders do not come regularly for it<br />
depends on <strong>the</strong> <strong>export</strong>ers if subcontract<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> work by <strong>the</strong>m is needed. It is also possible that<br />
an <strong>export</strong>er starts bus<strong>in</strong>ess with o<strong>the</strong>r units. The small number <strong>of</strong> orders had been caused by a set<br />
back <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>in</strong>dustry which is caused by <strong>in</strong>creased yarn prices <strong>and</strong> decreased orders placed by foreign<br />
buyers. Germany does not allow <strong>the</strong> import <strong>of</strong> <strong>garment</strong>s from <strong>India</strong> which have been<br />
produced with certa<strong>in</strong> chemicals like Azo-dyes, because <strong>the</strong> <strong>garment</strong>s with <strong>the</strong>se chemicals proved<br />
to cause sk<strong>in</strong> problems to consumers. The media <strong>in</strong> Germany <strong>and</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r European countries<br />
have made people aware <strong>of</strong> this issue. This has led to a set back <strong>in</strong> orders from foreign buyers<br />
with <strong>India</strong>n <strong>garment</strong> manufacturers. The negative publicity regard<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> quality <strong>of</strong> <strong>garment</strong>s from<br />
<strong>India</strong>, has hit <strong>the</strong> <strong>garment</strong> manufacturers <strong>of</strong> this <strong>and</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r units <strong>the</strong> hardest, accord<strong>in</strong>g to <strong>the</strong> unit<br />
owner.<br />
In <strong>the</strong> unit I saw four children at work. They all sat on <strong>the</strong> floor on a mat <strong>and</strong> were do<strong>in</strong>g simple<br />
tasks. A boy, who did not look older than 11, sat on <strong>the</strong> floor with next to him a huge pile <strong>of</strong> knitted<br />
clo<strong>the</strong>s. He was fold<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> clo<strong>the</strong>s. In <strong>the</strong> back <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> unit I saw a very young girl sweep<strong>in</strong>g<br />
<strong>the</strong> floor where all <strong>the</strong> cut cloth had fallen down. One girl sat on <strong>the</strong> floor beh<strong>in</strong>d <strong>the</strong> tailor <strong>and</strong><br />
seemed to do some tasks for him. Ano<strong>the</strong>r girl was fold<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> pieces <strong>of</strong> cloth on <strong>the</strong> floor.<br />
The children, like <strong>the</strong> <strong>adult</strong>s work 12 to 14 hours per day when <strong>the</strong>re is a high dem<strong>and</strong> <strong>and</strong> when<br />
<strong>the</strong> <strong>export</strong> order has to be met <strong>in</strong> time. At <strong>the</strong> moment <strong>of</strong> my visit, less <strong>adult</strong>s <strong>and</strong> more children<br />
were employed because an order had just been f<strong>in</strong>ished <strong>and</strong> delivered to <strong>the</strong> <strong>export</strong>er. To keep <strong>the</strong><br />
workers employed <strong>in</strong> a slack period, is too expensive. Only simple tasks have to be done which<br />
can easily be done by children who are paid less than <strong>adult</strong>s.<br />
The manager told me that <strong>the</strong> women are paid less than <strong>the</strong> men because <strong>the</strong>ir work is less skilled.<br />
The wages <strong>of</strong> <strong>adult</strong>s were paid accord<strong>in</strong>g to <strong>the</strong> piece rate system <strong>and</strong> varied from Rs 30 to Rs 75<br />
per day. The wage depends on <strong>the</strong> quality <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>garment</strong>s <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong> skills <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> worker. He did not