Child-and-adult-labour-in-the-export-oriented-garment-and-gem-polishing-industry-of-India

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Adult labour in the garment export industry of Bangalore
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stitched in the day, the workers were forced to work overtime to finish the target which was set by
the management. If the workers did not finish the quantity of garments in the day, their wages
would be reduced or they were dismissed. Because of the fear of losing the job the women said
they worked till the end at a very high speed. This had repercussions on their health. The women
said that when they apply for a tailoring job the employers are only interested in their speed of
stitching the garments. One's working speed determines one's wage.
The National Centre for Labour said that 'the employers force workers to do overtime work and
give remarks and incentives to work even harder. When the worker finally can finish more pieces
per hour or per day, then it means that the worker can manage that speed. The next day a new
target is set for that worker without increasing his or her wage'.
During garment factory visits, I asked employers the amount of wages which are paid to workers
in different jobs, employers replied that 'all the wages are different and depend on work experience
and type of work'. Employers also said that 'the wage differences between different jobs
regulate labour problems as nobody becomes jealous'.
Statutory benefits
The interviewed workers said that statutory benefits like ESI, PF, maternity leave and bonus were
paid to them. Maternity leave was paid half the salary during three months, the women stated. But
maternity leave should be paid fully according to the law. All the workers said that overtime work
was paid 1,5 to 2 times the salaries, also on Sundays. Most of the workers said that they were also
forced to work 2 to 3 Sundays in the month. Overtime work is compulsory otherwise they are
fired. During illness, the workers said they were simply fired and sent home, or after the birth of
the baby the women were not hired again by the same employer. Most of the women said that in
their factories, no creche facilities were available.
The interviewed workers said that no collective bargaining agreement exists between the employers
and the employees. Many times women expressed that they were threatened with
dismissal if they were to join labour unions. If a worker is fired, employers will thereafter spread
the message about this person with the result that he or she will not get job in another garment
factory again. Because of these threats, workers keep quiet and accept their exploited situation.
I had serious doubts if the workers really got ESI, PF, maternity leave and the overtime work
payments. The National Centre for Labour, an NGO in Bangalore, said that most of the workers
have hardly access to the benefits of ESI, PF and maternity leave. Some women also said that due
to illness or due to the period of maternity, they were fired from the job. Concerning the extra
overtime work payments, the workers did not get paid twice their wages. If one sums up the hours
of overtime work and the extra Sundays, the wages should have been much higher than the
amount they said. It seemed that they were afraid to tell this in front of me and the translator. In
an article which concerns women in the garment industry in Bangalore, it is pointed out that 'all
the extra hours the women put in, bring them an additional Rs 100 or Rs 150 per month' 111 .
111 Deccan Herald, March 11, 1995. 'Sewn by dire need'.