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<strong>Child</strong> <strong>and</strong> <strong>adult</strong> <strong>labour</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>garment</strong> <strong>export</strong> <strong>in</strong>dustry <strong>of</strong> Tirupur<br />
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mention <strong>the</strong> wages <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> children, but <strong>the</strong> children got paid less than <strong>the</strong> <strong>adult</strong>s. The owner told<br />
me that <strong>the</strong> wages <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> children were not fixed. The workers did not get statutory benefits like<br />
ESI, Provident Fund, maternity leave, sick-leave, bonus etc. No <strong>labour</strong> union was active <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
unit. The women did jobs like check<strong>in</strong>g, cutt<strong>in</strong>g, some stitch<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> button hol<strong>in</strong>g. The men were<br />
all <strong>in</strong>volved <strong>in</strong> tailor<strong>in</strong>g, sampl<strong>in</strong>g, cutt<strong>in</strong>g, iron<strong>in</strong>g or check<strong>in</strong>g.<br />
Case II<br />
This unit is a supplier to an <strong>export</strong>er <strong>in</strong> Bombay <strong>and</strong> only undertakes <strong>the</strong> process <strong>of</strong> bleach<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong><br />
dye<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> knitted <strong>and</strong> woven fabrics. The Bombay <strong>export</strong>er has all its knitwear cloth<strong>in</strong>g manufactured<br />
<strong>in</strong> Tirupur by its own manufactur<strong>in</strong>g unit which operates s<strong>in</strong>ce 1980, <strong>and</strong> where only<br />
processes like sampl<strong>in</strong>g, cutt<strong>in</strong>g, stitch<strong>in</strong>g, check<strong>in</strong>g, iron<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> pack<strong>in</strong>g are done. The bleached<br />
<strong>and</strong> dyed fabrics go to <strong>the</strong> manufactur<strong>in</strong>g unit where <strong>the</strong> fabrics are made <strong>in</strong>to <strong>garment</strong>s. The<br />
latter unit produces ma<strong>in</strong>ly ladies knitwear products like shirts, blouses, pyjamas, T-shirts,<br />
nightgowns, etc. which are <strong>of</strong> a lower quality <strong>and</strong> <strong>export</strong>ed, through Bombay, to <strong>the</strong> Ne<strong>the</strong>rl<strong>and</strong>s<br />
(Darnhouwer RW, Interwear, M.l.v.c.), France, Sweden, Italy, Germany, Norway.<br />
The visit to <strong>the</strong> bleach<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> dye<strong>in</strong>g unit was very short <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong> manager from Bombay had little<br />
time to answer questions. While walk<strong>in</strong>g through <strong>the</strong> unit, which had many departments, he told<br />
me that he could not answer questions related to <strong>labour</strong> because he was only a client <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> unit<br />
<strong>and</strong> not <strong>the</strong> employer.<br />
In <strong>the</strong> unit, huge dye<strong>in</strong>g mach<strong>in</strong>es were twist<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> turn<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> fabrics <strong>in</strong> huge conta<strong>in</strong>ers with<br />
dyes <strong>and</strong> chemicals. In ano<strong>the</strong>r build<strong>in</strong>g large conta<strong>in</strong>ers with water <strong>and</strong> chemicals were used to<br />
bleach <strong>the</strong> fabrics. Both <strong>the</strong> bleach<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> dye<strong>in</strong>g process take place <strong>in</strong> hot water. Tonnes <strong>of</strong><br />
wood are used to heat <strong>the</strong> water. The <strong>export</strong>er from Bombay mentioned <strong>the</strong> degradation <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
surround<strong>in</strong>g areas as <strong>the</strong> wood has to be imported from o<strong>the</strong>r states <strong>in</strong> <strong>India</strong>. The manager did not<br />
<strong>of</strong>fer any solutions <strong>and</strong> felt not responsible for f<strong>in</strong>d<strong>in</strong>g solutions. Apart from <strong>the</strong> deforestation <strong>the</strong><br />
dye <strong>and</strong> bleach processes need huge amounts <strong>of</strong> water. This water is taken from <strong>the</strong> nearby river<br />
Noyyal <strong>and</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r rivers or <strong>the</strong> water is taken from <strong>the</strong> ground water.<br />
Inside <strong>the</strong> dye<strong>in</strong>g house I almost had to run through <strong>the</strong> different bleach<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> dye<strong>in</strong>g sections to<br />
be able to follow <strong>the</strong> <strong>export</strong>er. I could th<strong>in</strong>k <strong>of</strong> two reasons for this behaviour. Firstly, <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
dye<strong>in</strong>g section around five to six boys are work<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong>y are def<strong>in</strong>itely younger than 14. Secondly,<br />
<strong>the</strong> air is so polluted with chemical dust com<strong>in</strong>g from <strong>the</strong> bleach<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> dye<strong>in</strong>g processes,<br />
that it is difficult to brea<strong>the</strong> <strong>and</strong> one needs fresh air quickly. I was shocked by this experience.<br />
<strong>Child</strong>ren <strong>and</strong> <strong>adult</strong>s work <strong>in</strong> this unit 12 to 14 hours per day <strong>and</strong> also <strong>in</strong> nightshifts.<br />
The children looked exhausted <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir shirts were dirty <strong>and</strong> covered with pa<strong>in</strong>t rests from dyed<br />
clo<strong>the</strong>s which <strong>the</strong>y had to carry from one dye-mach<strong>in</strong>e to <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r with <strong>the</strong>ir bare h<strong>and</strong>s. Also<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir faces <strong>and</strong> h<strong>and</strong>s were coloured with pa<strong>in</strong>t com<strong>in</strong>g from <strong>the</strong> clo<strong>the</strong>s. The clo<strong>the</strong>s had to be<br />
brought from <strong>the</strong> bleach section to <strong>the</strong> dye section by <strong>the</strong> child to give it a fashion colour. I only<br />
saw boys work<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> this dye<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> bleach<strong>in</strong>g unit. They assisted <strong>the</strong> <strong>adult</strong>s who carried out <strong>the</strong><br />
processes <strong>of</strong> dye<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> bleach<strong>in</strong>g. I saw <strong>the</strong> <strong>adult</strong>s order<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> children to run to <strong>the</strong>m quickly<br />
<strong>and</strong> assist <strong>the</strong>m. None <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> boys was wast<strong>in</strong>g his time. As <strong>the</strong>y saw me <strong>the</strong>y never stopped assist<strong>in</strong>g<br />
<strong>the</strong> <strong>adult</strong>s. I could hardly ask questions because <strong>the</strong> manager himself talked all <strong>the</strong> way or he<br />
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