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Child-and-adult-labour-in-the-export-oriented-garment-and-gem-polishing-industry-of-India

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<strong>Child</strong> <strong>and</strong> <strong>adult</strong> <strong>labour</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>gem</strong> polish<strong>in</strong>g <strong>export</strong> <strong>in</strong>dustry <strong>of</strong> Jaipur<br />

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money per month. As far as <strong>the</strong> wage <strong>of</strong> artisans is concerned, <strong>the</strong>re existed no uniformity <strong>in</strong> its<br />

structure. The <strong>gem</strong> polish<strong>in</strong>g unit owners or ustad-contractors got paid by <strong>the</strong> middlemen or<br />

brokers <strong>in</strong> carat weight <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> stones. The broker gets 4-12% commission depend<strong>in</strong>g on <strong>the</strong> type<br />

<strong>of</strong> stones he buys <strong>and</strong> sells <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> market. A broker can earn a wage which can vary between Rs<br />

5,000 <strong>and</strong> Rs 7,000 per month. Middlemen who can sell <strong>the</strong> <strong>gem</strong> stones to jewellery shops or<br />

<strong>export</strong>ers are <strong>of</strong>ten highly educated, with at least primary education. There are brokers who deal<br />

at all quality levels <strong>of</strong> <strong>gem</strong> stones, with or without hav<strong>in</strong>g a steady client circle, deal<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> small<br />

or large quantities.<br />

A broker who dealt <strong>in</strong> semi-precious <strong>gem</strong> stones only, said that 'for <strong>the</strong> <strong>India</strong>n traders, <strong>export</strong>ers<br />

<strong>and</strong> brokers <strong>the</strong> bus<strong>in</strong>ess <strong>in</strong> semi-precious stones is better than <strong>in</strong> precious stones. In <strong>the</strong> precious<br />

stone bus<strong>in</strong>ess <strong>the</strong>re are a lot <strong>of</strong> delays <strong>in</strong> payments from foreign buyers'. 'The clearance at <strong>the</strong> airport<br />

is very slow', accord<strong>in</strong>g to <strong>the</strong> broker. 'This is not <strong>the</strong> case <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> semi-precious bus<strong>in</strong>ess <strong>and</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> buyers seem to pay <strong>in</strong> time to <strong>the</strong> traders <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong> manufacturers. Higher prices are paid <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

semi-precious <strong>gem</strong> stone bus<strong>in</strong>ess'.<br />

The amount <strong>of</strong> money <strong>the</strong> unit owner can earn depends on how many stones <strong>the</strong> whole unit produces<br />

<strong>in</strong> a month or week <strong>and</strong> that depends on <strong>the</strong> accuracy <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong> experience <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> workers.<br />

Also, <strong>the</strong> price <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> stones depends on <strong>the</strong> type <strong>of</strong> stone (precious or semi-precious), <strong>the</strong> size,<br />

colour <strong>and</strong> clarity. The unit owner, who also works <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> unit, shares <strong>the</strong> total <strong>in</strong>come <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> unit<br />

among <strong>the</strong> workers. The unit owner earns <strong>of</strong> course more than his employees. The workers are<br />

gett<strong>in</strong>g paid accord<strong>in</strong>g to <strong>the</strong>ir experience <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong> type <strong>of</strong> job. On average, <strong>the</strong> wage <strong>of</strong> an <strong>adult</strong><br />

worker <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> age range between 18 <strong>and</strong> 38, varied between Rs 1,000 <strong>and</strong> 5,000 per month or Rs<br />

40 to Rs 210 per day. The majority <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>in</strong>terviewed workers started as child <strong>labour</strong>ers <strong>the</strong>mselves<br />

<strong>and</strong> had been do<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> same job <strong>of</strong> shap<strong>in</strong>g, facet<strong>in</strong>g or polish<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>gem</strong> stones for <strong>the</strong><br />

last 10 to 30 years. Adult workers who had just passed <strong>the</strong> age <strong>of</strong> 14 years <strong>of</strong>ten earned wages that<br />

ranged between Rs 400 <strong>and</strong> Rs 600 per month.<br />

There are hardly any <strong>adult</strong>s who are unskilled workers, because most <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m started as child<br />

<strong>labour</strong>ers <strong>the</strong>mselves <strong>and</strong> are skilled <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> work <strong>and</strong> do<strong>in</strong>g skilled jobs like shap<strong>in</strong>g, cutt<strong>in</strong>g, shap<strong>in</strong>g,<br />

carv<strong>in</strong>g, facet<strong>in</strong>g, polish<strong>in</strong>g etc. Adult workers perform skilled jobs, which <strong>in</strong>clude almost<br />

all <strong>the</strong> processes except jo<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g, f<strong>in</strong>al polish<strong>in</strong>g, <strong>and</strong> jobs like arrang<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> wooden sticks or<br />

sweep<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> unit. Dur<strong>in</strong>g visits to manufactur<strong>in</strong>g units, it was observed with only one <strong>adult</strong> who<br />

was do<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> process <strong>of</strong> 'jo<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g', <strong>and</strong> he earned Rs 40 per day. A child who is do<strong>in</strong>g this job is<br />

ei<strong>the</strong>r not paid for this job or earns at a most Rs 40 to Rs 50 per month.<br />

The <strong>adult</strong>s who do work like carv<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> <strong>gem</strong> stones earn much higher wages. They can ask higher<br />

prices for carved ornaments <strong>and</strong> jewellery as <strong>the</strong>se are bigger stones but also because more skills<br />

are needed to manufacture <strong>the</strong> sculptures.<br />

Workers who process precious stones earn more than workers who process semi-precious stones.<br />

This was found for <strong>adult</strong>s as well as for child <strong>labour</strong>ers who work <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>gem</strong> polish<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong>dustry<br />

<strong>of</strong> Jaipur.<br />

103<br />

The turnover is around US$ 1 million per month. To <strong>in</strong>vest his money he keeps two old-timers from 1931 <strong>and</strong> a jeep from <strong>the</strong> second World<br />

War, which were st<strong>and</strong><strong>in</strong>g beh<strong>in</strong>d <strong>the</strong> shop. Inside <strong>the</strong> build<strong>in</strong>g he was construct<strong>in</strong>g a palace with real gold <strong>and</strong> silver wall pa<strong>in</strong>t<strong>in</strong>gs.

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