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The <strong>garment</strong> <strong>export</strong> <strong>in</strong>dustry <strong>of</strong> <strong>India</strong>: Tirupur <strong>and</strong> Bangalore<br />
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knitted <strong>garment</strong>s <strong>in</strong> one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir supply<strong>in</strong>g manufactur<strong>in</strong>g units <strong>in</strong> Tirupur. Their discoveries <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> practice <strong>of</strong> child <strong>labour</strong> <strong>in</strong> Tirupur <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong> poor work<strong>in</strong>g conditions <strong>and</strong> low payments, were<br />
revealed <strong>in</strong> an English newspaper 61 <strong>and</strong> shocked <strong>the</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational community.<br />
Bangalore is ano<strong>the</strong>r example <strong>of</strong> a <strong>garment</strong> manufactur<strong>in</strong>g centre which is thriv<strong>in</strong>g on cheap<br />
<strong>labour</strong>; ma<strong>in</strong>ly women workers 62 . It is estimated that <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> total workforce <strong>of</strong> 250,000 workers,<br />
80% 63 is female. Women are <strong>the</strong> cheapest workers after children. Bangalore is <strong>the</strong> 'Mecca' for<br />
<strong>garment</strong> manufacturers but it is not for <strong>the</strong> women <strong>and</strong> men who are work<strong>in</strong>g for <strong>the</strong>se manufacturers;<br />
'wages are below <strong>the</strong> m<strong>in</strong>imum wage, overtime work is compulsory though wages <strong>of</strong><br />
overtime work are not paid twice <strong>the</strong> salary as stated <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> law, no job security, no maternity leave,<br />
harassments on <strong>the</strong> job, too much work pressure, threats made by <strong>the</strong> mana<strong>gem</strong>ent with los<strong>in</strong>g<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir job if <strong>the</strong>y jo<strong>in</strong> a <strong>labour</strong> union, etc.' 64 .<br />
Though <strong>the</strong> <strong>garment</strong> <strong>in</strong>dustry <strong>in</strong> <strong>India</strong> generates employment for many people <strong>and</strong> earns enormous<br />
amounts <strong>of</strong> foreign exchange, this is not an excuse to tolerate <strong>the</strong> exploitation <strong>of</strong> children <strong>and</strong><br />
<strong>adult</strong>s, who are <strong>of</strong>ten from <strong>the</strong> weakest section <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> society. One should question <strong>the</strong> economic<br />
growth when <strong>the</strong> pr<strong>of</strong>its are not shared with <strong>the</strong> workers who deliver <strong>the</strong> pr<strong>of</strong>its <strong>and</strong> when <strong>the</strong><br />
pr<strong>of</strong>its do not perco-late down to <strong>the</strong> poor. One should also question a pr<strong>of</strong>itable <strong>in</strong>dustry like <strong>the</strong><br />
<strong>export</strong>-<strong>oriented</strong> <strong>garment</strong> <strong>in</strong>dustry, when it is not will<strong>in</strong>g to provide its workers with a set <strong>of</strong><br />
m<strong>in</strong>imum <strong>labour</strong> conditions, like a 'need based' m<strong>in</strong>imum wage, job security, statutory benefits,<br />
etc. For this would generate even more employment <strong>and</strong> would create a happier workforce who<br />
can earn a liv<strong>in</strong>g with human dignity.<br />
33<br />
The study<br />
No studies exist on <strong>the</strong> <strong>labour</strong> conditions <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>garment</strong> <strong>export</strong> <strong>in</strong>dustry <strong>of</strong> Bangalore. Only recently,<br />
child <strong>labour</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>export</strong>-<strong>oriented</strong> <strong>garment</strong> <strong>in</strong>dustry <strong>in</strong> Tirupur has been surveyed<br />
thoroughly. Some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> results are given <strong>in</strong> section 4.3 <strong>of</strong> this report. These studies, however, do<br />
not give <strong>in</strong>formation on children who comb<strong>in</strong>e work <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> hosiery <strong>in</strong>dustry with education. The<br />
present study will fill this gap. This is important because <strong>the</strong>re are people who want to regulate<br />
child <strong>labour</strong> <strong>and</strong> comb<strong>in</strong>e non-formal education with work, without hav<strong>in</strong>g studied <strong>the</strong> impact<br />
such a schedule can have on children.<br />
61 The Mail On Sunday, January 8, 1995. 'For 40p, this girl works 13 hours a day mak<strong>in</strong>g C&A clo<strong>the</strong>s. And shoppers <strong>in</strong> Brita<strong>in</strong> spend<br />
millions buy<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong>m'.<br />
62 The Sunday, January 8, 1995. 'Fashion City. Why is Bangalore <strong>the</strong> Mecca <strong>of</strong> <strong>India</strong>'s <strong>garment</strong> <strong>export</strong> <strong>in</strong>dustry?'.<br />
63 Deccan Herald, March 11, 1995. 'Sewn up by dire need'.<br />
64 Deccan Herald, March 11, 1995. Ibid. Op. cit.