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CalabriA
Sicily disappears behind us. The ferry
spits us onto the parched, rocky southern
tip of Italy. The coastal road at
Capo Rizzuto paints a much more
beautiful picture of Calabria than the
ugly concrete skeletons on the periphery
of Réggio di Calabria – never
completed, nonetheless occupied
and depressing.
The coast drops steeply into the
deep blue sea. The scent of eucalyptus
wafts in the air. Olive, lemon and
orange trees, bergamot, ripe Indian
figs, white oleander, palms and agave
– Calabria is beautiful and poor.
The bright houses, the colourful bou-
Cari Saluti di
Bella Italia
gainvillea that grow rankly over the fences spread an air of
Mediterranean ease. No matter where you are in Calabria,
it never takes longer than half an hour to ride to the deep blue
sea or into the mountains.
Corigliano Calabro: There is Giovanni waving from the
balcony of a multi-storey cement box. „Benvenuto!“ When
it is 38 degrees outside, as it is now, the Calabrese drink
sweet cold coffee. It is served to us almost as soon as the
front door clicks shut.
Certo, Giovanni would like to show us where he comes
from – a city tour is planned. „Corigliano Paese“, the historic
medieval city, sits impressively on a spur of the Sila Mountains.
„Ten or fifteen years ago, all houses were full,“ says
Giovanni. „Then the earth shook. The walls had cracks. Actually
not much was destroyed, but the people grew afraid
and moved to ‚Corigliano Lo Scalo‘ where business is con-