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Mirage <strong>of</strong> Greek Continuity 269<br />

these two groups share strikingly similar customs : the c<strong>of</strong>feehouse<br />

<strong>of</strong> a Greek village is presented as ‘the modern equivalent<br />

<strong>of</strong> the lesche’, and the travelling craftsmen <strong>of</strong> modern Greece<br />

‘function in exactly the same way as Homer’s demioergoi’. 7<br />

More generally, modern peasants’ attitudes towards labour,<br />

honour, and shame carry us back to Hesiod’s Works and Days<br />

and are to be explained as a survival from classical antiquity. 8 In<br />

short, these modern Greeks, miraculously spared by the course<br />

<strong>of</strong> history and uncontaminated by the encroachments <strong>of</strong> modern<br />

civilization, have been transformed into living aboriginal<br />

ancestors. One is reminded <strong>of</strong> the Braudelian definition <strong>of</strong> the<br />

Mediterranean as ‘a collection <strong>of</strong> museums <strong>of</strong> man . . . a human<br />

milieu which the most spectacular invasions have shown themselves<br />

incapable <strong>of</strong> biting into deeply’. 9<br />

1. the first wave<br />

Long before modern classicists and ethnographers, such analogies<br />

were drawn not only by Frederick Douglas, in his Essay on<br />

certains points <strong>of</strong> resemblance between the ancient and modern<br />

Greeks (1813) , but also by earlier French, English, and German<br />

travellers who from Pierre Belon (1553) to William Eton (1798)<br />

happened to visit Athens, the islands, and what they called the<br />

‘Morea’ (the Peloponnese) and the ‘Levant’ (Asia Minor). 10<br />

Values in a Greek Mountain Community (Oxford, 1964); J. G. Peristiany,<br />

‘Honour and Shame in a Cypriot Highland Village’, in J. G. Peristiany (ed.),<br />

Honour and Shame: the Values <strong>of</strong> Mediterranean Society (London, 1965),<br />

173–90. And see T. J. Bent, ‘On Insular Greek Customs’, Journal <strong>of</strong> the<br />

Royal Anthropological Institute 15 (1886), 391–403, with Herzfeld, Anthropology,<br />

73.<br />

7 Walcot, Greek Peasants, 27, 28.<br />

8 Ibid. 25–44, 57–76.<br />

9 F. Braudel, La Méditerranée et le monde méditerranéen à l’époque de<br />

Philippe II (Paris, 1949), 298 (not included in the revised edition, nor therefore<br />

in the English translation).<br />

10 On early travellers in Greece see D. Constantine, Early Greek Travellers<br />

and the Hellenic Ideal (Cambridge, 1984); H. Angelomatis-Tsougarakis, The<br />

Eve <strong>of</strong> the Revival: British Travellers’ Perceptions <strong>of</strong> Early Nineteenth-Century<br />

Greece (London, 1990); R. Eisner, Travelers to an Antique Land: The History and<br />

Literature <strong>of</strong> Travel to Greece (Ann Arbor, 1991); O. Augustinos, French Odysseys<br />

: Greece in French Travel literature from the Renaissance to the Romantic Era<br />

(Baltimore, 1994). For a checklist <strong>of</strong> travel narratives see the end <strong>of</strong> this article.

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