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Mirage <strong>of</strong> Greek Continuity 289<br />

vous ne croyiez avoir déjà vu l’image sur quelques bas-reliefs ou sur<br />

une pierre antique. (ii. 173–4).<br />

Lechevalier happens to meet in the Laurion ‘un jeune berger<br />

chausé de cothurnes et exactement vêtu à la manière des anciens<br />

Grecs’ (1802, 118).<br />

Guys, who was first disappointed at not finding any more<br />

‘those celebrated artists whose race is extinct or those paintings<br />

or statues which have been destroyed or carried away’, is amply<br />

compensated by the contemplation <strong>of</strong> their very original, ‘the<br />

striking scenes before [him that] might have served as models<br />

for the painters, sculptors and poets <strong>of</strong> ancient Greece . . . the<br />

living pictures, the animated statues which industry and talents<br />

must copy with success’ (ii., 112, 113). Watching Greek women<br />

occupied with embroidery, he sees ‘a living portrait’ <strong>of</strong> the<br />

industrious wife painted after nature by Virgil’ (ii. 46); touring<br />

the country, he becomes acquainted with ‘the shepherds and<br />

pipers <strong>of</strong> Theocritus’ (ii. 166).<br />

In modern Greece, travellers are not only transported to<br />

ancient Greece. They come into contact with a primeval world<br />

characterized by the simplicity <strong>of</strong> its manners and identified<br />

with pure nature—as opposed to the refined modes <strong>of</strong> modern<br />

life. Greeks, according to Guys, ‘have to this day preserved the<br />

simplicity <strong>of</strong> the manners and customs <strong>of</strong> the earliest periods’<br />

(i. 46). Choiseul-Gouffier, discovering in Ios a world where<br />

‘tout rappelle la simplicité des premiers âges’ (1782, 20) would<br />

readily have agreed.<br />

Modern Greece becomes a world cut <strong>of</strong>f from history, and a<br />

place where time stands still, since it is inaccessible to the<br />

civilization and the changes it brings with it. But as modern<br />

Greece becomes representative <strong>of</strong> the primitive, it loses something<br />

<strong>of</strong> its particular appeal. The Greeks are assimilated to<br />

these oriental peoples who, as Choiseul-Gouffier says, 24 have<br />

not lost the manners described in the most ancient annals <strong>of</strong> the<br />

world, that is Homer but also the Bible. It becomes part <strong>of</strong> that<br />

Levant where Riedesel wanted to go to escape the curse <strong>of</strong><br />

civilization, and to find ‘un pays où l’habillement, les moeurs<br />

24 Choiseul-Gouffier, ii, 104: ‘Les peuples d’Orient n’ont donc perdu presque<br />

aucun des usages décrits dans les plus anciennes annales du monde, dans<br />

les livres saints ou dans les chants d’Homère.’

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