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288 Mirage <strong>of</strong> Greek Continuity<br />

This description, which surprisingly transforms Theocritus<br />

into a ‘realist’ artist and an accurate reporter <strong>of</strong> everyday life,<br />

and lumps memories from his Idylls together with obvious<br />

reminiscences <strong>of</strong> Longus’ Daphnis and Chloe, reverses the relationship<br />

between ancient texts and contemporary reality: 23<br />

Those early travellers primarily interested in archaeological remains<br />

used the ancient authors, especially Strabo and Pausanias, to elucidate<br />

the sites and the buildings. But it is rather a different process, almost a<br />

reversal, when a traveller—Lady Montagu being one <strong>of</strong> the first—<br />

applies what is there to be seen, particularly in climate, topography<br />

and manners, to the ancient texts, to Homer and Theocritus, to<br />

elucidate and enjoy them all the more.<br />

It is also a transformation <strong>of</strong> the way <strong>of</strong> looking at modern<br />

Greeks: they are promoted from their former status <strong>of</strong> vestiges<br />

to that <strong>of</strong> living museums.<br />

Other travellers shared this Romantic illusion. So, Choiseul-<br />

Gouffier discovers ‘une vive image de ces moeurs antiques’<br />

(Choiseul-Gouffier (1782), ii. 97). Arriving at Siphnos and<br />

finding the inhabitants assembled under a kind <strong>of</strong> portico and<br />

asking questions , he writes:<br />

Je me crus transporté aux beaux jours de la Grèce: ces portiques, cette<br />

assemblée populaire, ces vieillards qu’on écoutait avec un silence<br />

respectueux, leurs figures, leurs habillements, leur langage, tout me<br />

rappelait Athènes, ou Corinthe , et ces places publiques où un peuple<br />

avide de nouvelles environnait les étrangers et les voyageurs.<br />

L’empressement avec lequel on m’<strong>of</strong>frit l’hospitalité vint bientot fortifier<br />

cette illusion. (i. 14).<br />

The same experience is repeated in Tinos, when he sees old<br />

women knitting and telling stories, while young girls are singing:<br />

‘je crus alors pour la première fois que les tableaux délicieux<br />

que nous <strong>of</strong>frent les auteurs Grecs etaient moins l’ouvrage<br />

de leur imagination qu’une fidèle imitation de la nature’ (i. 44).<br />

In Adrianople, looking at women picking roses, he writes:<br />

les grâces décentes de ces moisonneuses, leurs vêtements, les longues<br />

tresses de leurs chevelures et ces voiles qu’elles se plaisent à livrer au<br />

vent qui les soutient en voûte sur leur tête, tout retrace les scènes<br />

décrites par Théocrite et Virgile: il n’est pas une de ces beautés dont<br />

23 Constantine, Early Greek Travellers, 149.

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