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Travels with Baedeker<br />

end of the popular spectrum was distinguished by the competition of two guides,<br />

one of which was Thomas Cook’s Handbook on Switzerland, first published in<br />

1874. This had no pretentions other than to describe the beaten track, and even<br />

then the sights it included were highly selective. In its appeal to popular instincts,<br />

its prose was marked by a more jocular style, introducing one resort thus:<br />

“Interlacken [sic] has been described as the Leamington, or Cheltenham, or<br />

Harrogate of Switzerland.” Mocking the whey cure that had been the town’s<br />

original attraction, the guide recommended, with unfailing drollery, the “tour-cure”<br />

instead, which consisted of the purchase of Cook’s tourist ticket. Cook’s handbook<br />

did not contain a description of the town’s actual sights, but was nevertheless<br />

content to convey to the reader an altogether dismissive assessment of Interlaken. 23<br />

The second consciously down-market popular guidebook was Henry Gaze’s Switzerland:<br />

How to See it for Ten Guineas, available for just one shilling (compared to<br />

nine shillings for Murray’s Swiss guide in the 1860s). It was part of a series covering<br />

the most popular English tourist destinations: Paris, northern Italy, and the Low<br />

Countries. As indicated in its title, the guidebook’s emphasis was on price, its main<br />

function being the design of an itinerary whereby the sights of Switzerland could<br />

be experienced for the allotted sum. 24<br />

The proliferation of guidebooks to cater for the growing British tourist market<br />

confirmed rather than challenged the preeminence of Murray’s and Baedeker’s<br />

guides. John Ball was happy to copy verbatim passages from Murray into his own<br />

guide. Henry Gaze went further, recommending, for a “full enjoyment” of the<br />

scenes passed by, the Murray as an “invaluable companion”; to save space, at<br />

each point of interest Gaze’s book referred to the relevant page number in the<br />

Murray for more detailed information. 25 Baedeker, in turn, was championed by<br />

Thomas Cook, whose guidebook highlighted its indebtedness to Baedeker through<br />

extensive quotations, without shying away from copying, without acknowledgment,<br />

Murray’s extensive use of Byron in the Oberland or at Chillon. 26 Directly<br />

and indirectly, Baedeker’s and Murray’s handbooks maintained and extended a<br />

unique preeminence in the increasingly diverse market for guidebooks.<br />

The spread and relative uniformity of travel guidebooks was an important<br />

precondition for the cultural impact of the Murray and the Baedeker, but this says<br />

little about the actual nature of their influence. Famously, when Lucy Honeychurch<br />

and her cousin Charlotte set out to discover the sights of Florence in E.M. Forster’s<br />

A Room with a View, Lucy needed the Baedeker to tell her what was “really<br />

beautiful” in Santa Croce. On his first trip to Venice in 1869, it was perfectly<br />

natural for Henry James to rely on the Murray, and he decided to lodge in the first<br />

place recommended by the guidebook. 27 Beyond such illustrious examples from<br />

the literary world, up to now the close association between guidebook and<br />

readership has been more assumed than proven. This is surprising, for the wealth<br />

of published and unpublished travelers’ journals of the period offers a genuine<br />

insight into the precise ways in which guidebook and audience interacted.<br />

109

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